Paraguay tours & travel

Like most of South America, Paraguay’s Spanish colonial heritage has shaped much of its culture and customs. Paraguay makes an interesting case study as it’s managed to hold onto much more of its indigenous character than many of its South American counterparts. 

Most Paraguayans identify as ‘mestizos’ of mixed Spanish and Amerindian descent, and both Spanish and the indigenous language of Guarani share official status. Guarani is understood by about 95% of the population and spoken by more than 90%. It’s the only indigenous language of the Americas that are spoken by significant numbers of non-indigenous people. In the cities, both Spanish and Guarani can be heard but Spanish speakers can be few and far between in rural areas. At least a dozen other native languages are also spoken while English is relatively rare.

Paraguay is the second poorest country in South America after Bolivia with a large gap between the rich and poor. That notwithstanding, its larger cities are sophisticated and modern with lively art scenes showcased in contemporary galleries and museums. Traditional ways of life persist in rural regions, where it can be more common to see horse-drawn carts than cars and trucks. Most of Paraguay’s indigenous people reside in the Gran Chaco wilderness and many live modestly off the land by hunting wild animals and foraging for berries. Their way of life is sadly coming under increasing threat from deforestation. 

Paraguayans are celebrated for being laidback, warm, open, and happy. In 2012, Paraguay was nominated as the happiest country in the world according to a Gallup poll on well-being. 

Here are some useful things to bear in mind about Paraguayan culture:

1.    Men and women usually shake hands to greet each other, even if they’ve already met earlier in the day.

2.    Paraguayans kiss twice on the cheeks when meeting friends and family members.

3.    Like a lot of South America, punctuality isn’t given much importance. Expect scheduled events to start later than they’ve been billed. 

4.    Siestas are more common in rural areas than in cities and are usually taken straight after lunch between the hours of noon and 2 pm. Most shops will close during this period. 

5.    Lunch is the main meal of the day with dinner served late, typically at about 10 pm. 

6.    Roman Catholic is the predominant faith and conservative dress is expected when visiting religious sites. 

7.    Soccer is something of a second religion in Paraguay. The two most popular teams are Olimpia and Cerro Porteno.

Paraguay doesn’t have much of an international food scene, although Asian cuisine has grown in popularity in recent years. Paraguayan cooking typically combines Spanish-style traditions with indigenous influences. 

Must-try foods and drink in Paraguay 

1.    Terere 

Paraguayans drink a whole lot of terere, a yerba mate tea served cold in large wooden ‘guampas’ and sipped through metal ‘bombilla’ straws. It’s drunk in the early mornings, after lunch, and in the late evenings and its consumption is often a social affair, with guampas and bomillas passed between friends. 

2.    Asado

Barbequed meats known as asado are really popular and served in ‘parrilla’ (grill) restaurants.

3.    Empanadas

Delicious hand-sized baked pastries stuffed with meat and egg. You’ll find these served throughout Paraguay.

4.    Tortillas 

Tortillas are slightly different in Paraguay to other places in Latin America. In Paraguay, they’re more like fried dough and made with Paraguayan cheese.

5.    Mandioca

Mandiocas are a potato-like native crop and eaten boiled or fried with nearly every meal.

6.    Chipa

A small traditional bread made from mandioca flour and baked in an outdoor oven called a ‘tatacua’. 

7.    Sopa Paraguaya 

Masquerading as soup, this traditional dish is actually a delicious cornbread flavoured with cheese and onion.

Nestled in the very heart of the continent, Paraguay is bordered by Argentina to the south and southwest, Brazil to the east and northeast, and Bolivia to the northwest. 

Like neighbouring Bolivia, Paraguay is a landlocked country but it’s crisscrossed by navigable rivers such as the Rio Paraguay, which divides the country into Occidental and Oriental halves.

Paraguay is roughly the size of California and quite sparsely populated. Most of the population lives in the eastern half, with about a third residing in the riverside capital of Asuncion. 

The environment ranges from the arid desolation of Chaco in the north to sticky subtropical rainforest in the Pararena region and the expansive tropical wetlands of El Pantanal, which Paraguay shares with Bolivia. Paraguay is a treasure trove of natural beauty with no less than 34 government-protected wildlife areas, home to diverse species that include crocodiles, jaguars, and pumas.

Early history

Before the Spanish arrived and colonised the country in the 16th century, the indigenous Guarani people had already been living in Paraguay for at least a millennium. Paraguay gained independence in 1811 and was subsequently ruled by a series of dictatorships, under whose direction the country became isolated from many of its neighbours. During the Paraguayan War (1861-1870), Paraguay lost a huge number of its population and ceded much of its territory to Argentina and Bolivia.

Recent history

Paraguay’s last authoritarian ruler Alfredo Stroessner was toppled in 1989 after a 35-year reign. 1993 saw the country’s first free, multi-party elections although Stroessner’s Colorado Party managed to hold on to power at successive elections. This hold was broken with Fernando Lugo’s election in 2008, however, Lugo was impeached in 2012 after a bloody land dispute. Horacio Manuel Cartes Jara won the subsequent election, bringing the Colorado Party back into power. Present-day democracy in Paraguay is probably best described as fragile but optimistic. 

Health and safety

Intrepid takes the health and safety of its travellers seriously and takes every measure to ensure that trips are safe, fun, and enjoyable for everyone. We recommend that all travellers check with their government or national travel advisory organisation for the latest information before departure:

Australia: www.smartraveller.gov.au/

Canada: www.voyage.gc.ca/

UK: www.fco.gov.uk/en/

New Zealand: www.safetravel.govt.nz/

US: travel.state.gov/

The World Health Organisation also provides useful health information. Go to: http://www.who.int/en/

1.    San Jose

Encarnacion’s pretty beach is a testament to the city’s status as the Pearl of the South. This southern side of the Parana River is highly accessible, with boardwalks and walkways along some eight kilometres of its waterfront. San Jose’s welcoming sands and clean waters get busy in the summer, especially by Paraguayan standards. During Carnival season, celebrations frequently spill out onto the strand. 

2.    La Rotonda 

La Rotonda goes after the fun factor in a big way. Flanked by scenic tree-lined hills, it’s found on Ypacarai Lake in the historic section of San Bernardino in the La Cordillera department. It boasts a Ferris wheel as well as water bicycle and canoe rentals.

3.    Laguna Blanca

Located in the department of San Pedro, Laguna Blanca’s thatched umbrellas, white sand, and lovely greenery are often held up as the Paraguayan beach ideal. Kayaks and rowboats are available to hire but visitors should be aware that only 100 people are allowed on the beach at any one time to maintain its peaceful, calm ambience. Making a reservation in advance is essential.

4.    Dorada

Playa Dorada is found in the department of Concepcion, where the Paraguay River meets the Apa River. It’s Paraguay’s most isolated beach and it may also be its best. 

5.    Paraiso

Playa Paraiso is a broad beach of white sand that’s located on the Tebicuary River near the town of Villa Florida in the department of Misiones.

It's a good idea to check with your local customs officials to ensure that you are able to bring certain items back into your home country. Australia and New Zealand generally have strict quarantine laws.

Things to buy in Paraguay

1.    Nanduti lace

‘Nanduti’, meaning ‘spiderweb’ in the Guarani language, is one of Paraguay’s most iconic crafts. Each piece consists of intricate geometric patterns embellished in colourful threads. It most likely first arrived from the Spanish island of Tenerife.

2.    Leather

Decorated leather items are particularly popular in the cities of Atyra, Ypacarai, and Concepcion. The most commonly sold items are covers for guampas, handbags, and belts. 

3.    Terere

A guampa mate vessel or a metal bombilla straw make an unusual and unique souvenir.

Raucous celebrations are held for Independence Day on May 15 each year. The annual fiesta is marked with parades, huge barbecues, football matches, and fireworks. Carnival also takes place in February and is a huge affair, particularly in the city of Encarnacion.