Turkey's Black Sea: Istanbul to Tbilisi

Hos geldin! Welcome to Turkey. Your adventure begins in Istanbul – the continent-straddling metropolis that the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans have all once called home. You’ll have a welcome meeting at 6 pm to meet your leader and fellow travellers. If you arrive with time to spare, you might like to visit the Blue Mosque to see its lavish interior decorated with thousands of hand-painted Iznik tiles. For a bit of ancient history, why not explore the Hippodrome or see the Million stone – a road marker built in the 4th century. After tonight’s meeting, maybe round up your group and head out for some dinner – smoky kebabs cooked over open flames, balik durum (grilled fish wraps) and gozleme are all on the cards.

Set off into Turkey’s Black Sea region, full of charming villages brimming with history to uncover, lush mountainsides and a picturesque coast scattered with beaches and rocky coves. You’ll arrive in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed town of Safranbolu in the mid-afternoon – once an important post town along the East-West trade route. Join your leader for a walking tour to explore the town’s well-preserved Ottoman-era districts – Cukur (the market district), Kirankoy (where artisans and tradesmen once lived above their shops) and Baglar (full of traditional homes with large gardens). You’ll check out the Old Bazaar, Clock Tower, Cinci Hamam and pass some impressive Ottoman mansions. Maybe stop for tea or snack on a simit (circular bread covered in sesame seeds) while you wander. Your evening is free. For dinner, you might like to sample some of the town's specialties, especially dishes using the saffron that grows in this region, or bukmesi (a buttery pastry filled with meat, onions and spinach). Your hotel tonight is in a converted Ottoman mansion. Keep an eye out for traditional design features like the cumba (a bay window usually found on the upper floor).

Try some of Safranbolu’s specialty treats during a demonstration and tasting this morning. Learn about how the local Turkish delight is made, often flavoured with saffron, rose, bergamot or pistachio, plus try some local soda. Next, stop at the Crystal Glass Terrace for an excellent view of Safranbolu and Incekaya Canyon, then say goodbye to Safranbolu and head to Horma Canyon. Embark on a short hike along a wooden platform that winds through the canyon to take in the vast scenery of the cliff faces rising around you. Continue the drive to Kastamonu, watching the landscape transform as you follow winding roads through the countryside. You’ll arrive in the afternoon, then you're free to explore the city at your own pace. Kastamonu’s Old Town is centred around the ruins of a Byzantine fortress atop a rocky hill, including a covered bazaar and centuries-old mosques. If you’re looking for a snack, Kastamonu is famous for its pastirma (a specialty cured meat coated in spices).

Travel to the port city of Samsun, arriving in the mid-afternoon. Take a cable car up Amisos Hill to get your first proper view of the city and see the vast Black Sea from up above. Return to the city and go on a short orientation walk with your leader to get the lay of the land, then the rest of the day is free for you to explore. You could visit the Samsun Museum, which showcases a collection of ancient artefacts found in a burial chamber, providing a glimpse at ancient art, culture and daily life. Maybe set yourself up on one of Samsun’s beaches for the afternoon and go for a swim in the Black Sea or hire a bike and follow one of the many cycling trails.

Journey to Trabzon, making a stop along the way at Lake Sera – a local favourite holiday spot. If you feel like getting out on the water, you can rent a paddle boat and spend some time exploring the calm waters. Continue to Trabzon, arriving in the afternoon. Trabzon is one of the largest and most vibrant cities on the Black Sea coast. When you arrive, follow your leader on an orientation walk. A highlight is the Trabzon Hagia Sophia – a 13th-century late-Byzantine church with colourful frescoes. Over the centuries, this church has served different purposes, initially used as a monastic and funerary church, then as a mosque, then as a military depot, reflecting the many layers of religious and cultural history that have shaped Trabzon. During your walk, you’ll also get an insight into Trabzon’s modern-day culture, including how anchovies are integral to the local culinary tradition, the pride in the local football club and long-held folkloric traditions. The rest of the day is free for you to explore – ask your leader if you need some suggestions.

Visit Sumela Monastery this morning – this 4th-century monastery clings to the side of a cliff. Founded by some of the earliest Christians who arrived on the Black Sea coast, this impressive structure sits 300 m above the Altindere Valley floor and includes chapels, courtyards, an aqueduct, a library, monastic living quarters, a belltower and a sacred spring. Step into the monastery and explore the vast network of rooms, scanning the walls and ceilings for the abundance of remarkably intact frescoes. Back in Trabzon, you have a free afternoon. Maybe check out Trabzon Castle, visit the mosques and churches in the city or head to the Boztepe Observation Deck for unforgettable sunset views over the Black Sea.

Venture into the Rize province, the largest tea region in Turkey. Along the way, you’ll stop at a local restaurant for a kuymak cooking demonstration and tasting. This traditional breakfast dish originated in the Black Sea region and is made from cornmeal, cheese and butter. Learn how the dish is made, then sample this rich, gooey delight for yourself. Then, head to a tea plantation to learn how Turkish tea is produced and processed. After touring the plantation, sit down for a cup of the strong brew that Turkey is known for. Next, continue to the Ayder Plateau – one of the country’s greenest and most mountainous regions. Take in the distinctive peaky scenery of the Black Sea coast, characterised by deep valleys, glaciers and soaring mountains that remain snow-covered for much of the year. You might even catch a glimpse of the hazelnut farms that are abundant in this region (around 60 per cent of the world’s hazelnuts come from Turkey's Eastern Black Sea region!). Visit the Gelin Tulu Waterfall to see cascades winding down the bright green mountainside. Arrive at your mountain lodge on Ayder Plateau, surrounded by greenery and crisp mountain air, and settle in for the night.

This morning, head into the Firtina Valley to visit Zil Castle. Built in the late 14th century, this castle is perched up at 750 m above sea level, overlooking the Firtina River. You’ll make a stop along the way to wander through a local village. Here in the Black Sea highlands, residents live lower down in the valley during the winter months, then move up to the highland villages (like the one you’ll visit today) for the summer and early autumn. Learn about daily life and culture in the highlands, and don’t be surprised if a local family invites you in for some tea! Then, go on a picturesque hike on the Elevit Plateau, sitting at an altitude of roughly 1800 m at the foothills of the Kackar Mountains. The hike takes you deeper into the mountainside, where you can get a sense of the peaceful rhythm of local village life. You might see cows grazing freely on the mountain pastures and meet some of the locals who spend their summers here.

Leave the Black Sea behind and travel into the highland region of Eastern Anatolia. Today's journey takes you through dramatic mountain landscapes before reaching the city of Kars, located on a plateau at 1750 m above sea level. When you arrive, head out on an orientation walk with your leader and visit the Merkez Kumbet Mosque, originally built as a church in the 10th century and later converted to a mosque. Kars’ harsh climate has deeply influenced its culinary traditions – the winters here can be long, extremely cold and snowy, so local dishes tend to be hearty and warming. Slow-cooked goose served with bulgur is a popular local favourite, as is piti (a stew of lamb, chickpeas and saffron or turmeric). Ask your leader for some recommendations on where to try these classic dishes.

Today, you’ll visit the UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins of Ani – a medieval city overlooking a ravine on the border with Armenia. This site is located on a secluded plateau and includes the ruins of a citadel, churches, a temple, market, Kamsaragan Palace and the Seljuk Palace. After, continue to the village of Bogatepe. This village has long been home to the Molokan people – a minority group exiled from Russia to Eastern Anatolia in the 19th century. This region’s cool climate and lush mountain pastures provide ideal conditions for dairy production, and the popular Kars gravyer has become one of Turkey’s best-known cheeses. Visit a local cheese-making family and learn about their traditions and culture while tasting their signature cheese and homemade dishes for lunch. Then, head back to Kars and visit the Kars Museum. The rest of your day is free. If you’re keen to get active, you could take a hike up to Kars Castle for a great view of the city. Enjoy one final night in Turkey before you cross the border into Georgia tomorrow. There’s the option to join a Kafkas Night this evening, where you can witness the energetic dances, traditional music and colourful costumes of the Caucasus.

Cross the border into Georgia today, stopping at the Poka St. Nino Nunnery to break up the journey. From here, you’ll take in views of Paravani Lake – the largest lake in Georgia – giving you an impressive first look at Georgia’s natural scenery. You’ll arrive in Tbilisi in the mid-afternoon. Maybe get together with your group this evening to celebrate an incredible journey over plates of tasty Georgian dishes like khinkali (soup dumplings filled with potato and cheese or spiced pork), badrijani nigvzit (fried eggplant stuffed with walnut) and khachapuri (cheese-filled bread).

With no further activities planned, your adventure comes to an end. If you’d like to extend your stay in Tbilisi, just speak to your booking agent ahead of time to organise additional accommodation.