Beyond the sea, a cool capital thrives
Art, espresso and old-world charm—this is Zagreb. No coastline? No problem. Croatia’s capital city sits apart from the tourist hubs of Dubrovnik and Split, offering a more continental, cultural and local experience. With a slower (but not sleepier) pace, this city is home to quirky museums, open-air markets and a thriving Advent season. With green spaces, friendly locals and fewer crowds, this city is both underrated and unexpectedly cool.
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Zagreb highlights
Walk Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and Donji Grad (Lower Town)
With social Tkalciceva Street running between the upper and lower towns, this is the perfect place to start your walk. Gornji Grad (upper) is the oldest part of the city, home to St. Mark’s Church (with its colourful tiled roof), the Gothic Zagreb Cathedral, Lotrscak Tower, the Stone Gate and the Museum of Broken Relationships. Donji Grad (lower) is home to Ban Jelacic Square and the Green Horseshoe (connected parks and plazas).
Get festive beneath the market lights of Advent
Sitting below Mt Medvednica, Zagreb is the perfect winter destination. A month-long Advent festival transforms the city into an illuminated winter wonderland, complete with acres of fairy-lights, huge Christmas trees, nativity scenes, temporary ice rinks, mulled wine stalls and igloo-shaped rakija (a potent local drop) bars. The Christmas market here is considered among the best in Europe.
Start the day with espresso and pastries at Dolac Market
Weave in and out of market stalls with the locals as they jostle for position to pick up the day’s supply of locally grown veggies, freshly baked pastries, meats and cheeses at the historic Dolac Market. The upper level offers seasonal fruits, vegetables, preserves and olive oil and the bottom level sells cheese and meats. Crunch on a flaky burek, get a taste for cevapcici, then sit down at a nearby cafe and indulge in an espresso.
Ride the cable car to the summit of Medvednica
Chase panoramic views of Zagreb on the cable car ride to Sljeme – the summit of Medvednica mountain. If you’re travelling in the right season, you might even experience the true winter wonderland in the mountains (this spot always sees a fair bit of snow during winter). Savour the sights on a walk, then maybe have a traditional Croatian meal with local specialties like soup, meat stew, or sarma.
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