Never heard of the town of Orchha in Madhya Pradesh? Neither had Chris Mitchell until he explored its temples and riverside tombs on a small-group adventure.
I can distinctly remember carefully looking over my Delhi to Kathmandu adventure before leaving and having no discernible idea of where Orchha was or why it might be worth including on an India itinerary.
Of course, I knew Delhi, Agra, Varanasi, Kathmandu and other hotspots, but my mind just drew a blank when it came to Orchha. It’s a wonderful thing, too, because when you have no preconceptions about a place, you’re leaving the door wide open to be wowed.
In many ways, Orchha was the unsung hero of my trip and a very different side of India, and one that I’m very happy I became acquainted with. It offered an intimate look into a different pace of life with a history that was both fascinating and captivating.
Why come to Orchha?
Founded at the turn of the 16th century by Rudra Pratep Singh, Orchha quickly became of some importance because of the impressive and opulent fort that was built there during Singh’s reign, as well as a display of the ruler’s independence and military might. He was a chief of Bundela Rajput descent who reigned over the city from 1501 to 1531, during which time he accomplished an awful lot.
What’s remarkable about Orchha is that, compared to other Indian towns and cities, it remains very much unchanged from its original formation. The town has a distinct medieval aura that woos with its charm. Sure, modern daily life swirls around the town, but it still feels distinctly historical.
With a population of about 10,000 people, Orchha provides the perfect counterpoint to cities like Delhi which have populations thousands of times the size. Among my group, Orchha was a crowd favourite and I firmly believe that’s because it’s just so different from everything else we experienced in India.
What should I see and do in Orchha?
Orchha, due to its size, is a really manageable place from a tourist perspective. During our visit, Intrepid set up guided tours of major sights, but we also had a fair bit of time to explore on our own, which I actually really appreciated. This setup ensured that I covered my bases from a historical perspective, but that I also had some room to make this part of the trip my own.
Part of making my own trip ironically consisted of discovering the town with others in my group. I actually ended up bonding with another traveller, John, over our experience at Orchha’s funerary temples (known as Chhatris), which wasn’t on the itinerary, but meant a lot to both of us. We ended up seeing some other members of our group there as well and took a few fun photos together, adding to the memory. Regardless of how you choose to tackle the town, here’s what I’d recommend seeing.
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Orchha Fort Complex
You won’t be able to miss the Orchha Fort Complex, even if you wanted to. This sight dominates the skyline and the feeling of the town. The complex consists of the fort itself, but more broadly refers to the palaces and temples on the site, as well as the gardens and pavilions.
The main palaces which are worth seeing are Raja Mahal (Raja Mandir), Jehangir Mahal and Sheesh Mahal. Jehangir Mahal in particular is spectacular. If you’re a fan of Indo-Islamic architecture, then this is a great example. It was built in the 17th century by the ruler Vir Singh Deo as a warm welcome for the visiting Mughal emperor Jahangir.
Apparently, the welcome wasn’t warm enough, as the two engaged in a bloody war shortly after with Jahangir’s troops coming out on top. However, it wasn’t long before Vir Singh Deo again was back on top and he remained a proud fugitive the rest of his life.
Chaturbhuj Temple
Like the Orchha Fort Complex, you couldn’t avoid the Chaturbhuj Temple even if you wanted to. The imposing spherical spires stretch nearly 110 metres into the air. The temple was started by Madhukar Shah, but completed by his son, Vir Singh Deo in the 17th century. It’s dedicated to the god Vishnu, which is exemplified by the name ‘chaturbhuj’, which in Sanskrit translates as ‘one who has four arms.’
Looking at dates, it’s clear the Bundela Rajputs went on an unprecedented building spree in the early 17th century and constructed an impressive collection of buildings and temples, most of which are still standing today.
Chhatris
The chhatris cenotaphs are living monuments which pay respect to Orchha’s past royalty, including the likes of Vir Singh Deo, whose tomb is separated away from the rest near the water. During our afternoon off, John and I moseyed down to the water – and were awed when we got there – all just a ten-minute walk from the centre of the town, on the banks of the Betwa River.
A cooking class to remember
The cooking class with Intrepid might just have been the highlight of my time in India, if only because we were warmly welcomed into someone’s home in Orchha for the experience. We learned about the local cuisine in an intimate cooking demonstration in a local family’s home. The kids were working on their homework with their dad while their mum made a meal from scratch, then we were all able to indulge together.
Understanding what went into the meal (which was, as it turns out, equal parts spice and love) altered my experience and appreciation for Indian cuisine. While I do love solo travel, I really don’t see how I would have had this experience without Intrepid’s support for and connection to the local community.
Our local leader, Chime, played a big part in elaborating upon and contextualising the importance of cooking in Indian culture and was an important bridge for us to understanding the country.
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Oh, to be in Orchha again
More than big cities like Delhi and Kathmandu, I yearn to be back in Orchha. In many ways, Orchha is like one big outdoor museum, where you’re immersed in the town’s history and stories. A place where you can sense the story and see the town without much effort because almost it’s all right there.
It’s got a proud heritage that you’d be remiss not to dive into and a rich history that I’m now personally attached to.
Smaller places that you may not have heard of like Orchha can sometimes get lost in the tourist fray, but they shouldn’t be missed and often leave a more lasting mark because there are less preconceived expectations to live up to. You get to arrive with an open mind and heart – and simply allow yourself to be swept away.
Get swept away by India on one of Intrepid’s locally led small-group adventures.
