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Everything you need to know about overnight trains in India

written by Kristin Amico November 13, 2018
India overnight trains

I watched my favorite Wes Anderson movie, The Darjeeling Limited, on repeat prior to my first trip to India more than two years ago.

The camera pans across lush landscapes as the train with three troubled brothers slowly snakes through the Eastern Himalayas. Remember that scene where the impeccably-dressed steward brings the brothers sweet lime juice on a silver tray, and they sip while sitting on opulent orange upholstery? The movie is absolute eye candy.

My overnight train journeys, both solo and as part of Intrepid’s South India Revealed trip, looked nothing like the cinematic masterpiece. They were, however, equally quirky and rewarding immersive experiences, and I would gladly take the train again (now that I’m prepared).

India overnight trainsHere’s what to expect on your own rail adventures across India:

You’ll make new friends

There’s a chance you’ll be sharing a compartment with local travelers of either gender. Our group met a variety of passengers along the way, including a professional web developer who was traveling for work, and a young couple on holiday. Part of my group took the North India Revealed trip before I met up with them in the south, and told me about their shared meals and late-night conversation with a family sharing the quarters. While it sometimes feels exhausting to take long trains, it’s hard to turn down homemade desserts!

The thing all these experiences with local travelers have in common is the genuine interest about our journey across India, and desire to learn where we were all from. Fellow train travelers always have the best food tips for each city, too!


India overnight trains

Put your misgivings aside

The ambiance on Indian trains falls somewhere on a sliding scale of slightly tattered to dorm room drab. With vinyl seats, metal walls and fluorescent lighting, it’s definitely not a design marvel, but I ended up getting a decent night’s sleep as the beds are actually quite sturdy.

The accommodations aren’t spotless, but they aren’t dirty, either. You’ll be provided with clean sheets that come in paper packets, blankets, and a pillow. Many of the seasoned travelers I met chose to bring their own cocoon-style travel sheet.


Don’t expect privacy

Unlike European sleeper cars, there are no doors to each compartment, nor are there curtains that slide in front of the bunks. The vinyl seats fold down to convert each seating area to a 6-bunk compartment with three bunks on each side. Think of it more like an open-air sleeping cube. Passengers will be walking up and down the aisle at the far end of the beds.

India overnight trains

You’ll want to sleep in comfy yet modest clothing. A t-shirt and yoga pants are fine, and you’ll see plenty of local men sleeping in jeans and sweatshirts, and ladies in comfy shirts or tunics paired with traditional pants called salwars, which can be tight like leggings or loose like pajamas.


What’s to eat?

There is no cafe cart. Ask your guide about what bring before you arrive at the station, or even what will be available to eat at the station. Our amazing guide, Usha, who was not only a travel pro, but a provider of great food advice, prepped us before each journey, alerting us to which stations had good street food, and which ones were bare bones. It’s easy to pick up bananas, chips, water and a last-minute cup of chai before boarding the train. Some even had vendors making fresh takeaway.

On extra hot days, most in our group indulged in ice cream bars (look for the small freezers where they sell cold water), as our pre-train sweet treat.

Bring a sweatshirt

Yes, India is often hot and it seems crazy to pack such a bulky item in your luggage, especially if you’re limited to just a backpack. Train cars with AC – which is how you’ll travel on an Intrepid trip – can get cold, especially if you are on the top bunk near the fan.


Vital train tips from Ashish Verma, Intrepid Travel’s Contracting Manager in India:

Be ready for delays for a number of reasons – fog is a pretty common one. And remember a chain and padlock (there are bars beneath the seats where you can lock up your bag). Also, don’t use the toilets when the train is stationary!

Sleep early and bring earplugs

Once you and the group board, it’s best to get settled and get to sleep earlier rather than later. First, there are no individual bunk lights, just one big overhead light, so you can’t customize it to your liking. Second, the chai wallahs start gliding through the aisles early (around 6am) to hawk their hot tea – and they aren’t quiet about it.

In addition, the train will make stops throughout the night letting passengers on and off, and it might get noisy. The earplugs will help offset the sporadic commotion throughout the night.

India overnight trains

Let’s talk toilets

Sleeper trains have toilets at the end of each car. Most have 3 bathrooms — 2 Indian-style squat toilets, and 1 Western-style seated (drop) toilet. Attendants come through and clean throughout the journey. It won’t be the cleanest bathroom ever, but I’ve experienced worse at roadside stops during my travels. I’m going to admit, me a few of the other ladies on our trip ran to the bathroom as a bunch as soon as we boarded to scope out the situation — that’s when we pulled together a communal bathroom supply bag with toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes.

Put on shoes to visit the bathroom (the floors are often hosed down and wet) and bring toilet paper and hand sanitizer, though there are sinks. Most importantly, don’t avoid drinking water during the journey simply because you want to avoid the WC. It’s hot throughout most of the year in India and you’ll risk dehydration. Our guide Usha warned that dehydration, not Delhi belly, is the reason they most often need to seek medical attention for guests.


Luggage stays with you

There is room under the bottom bunk to store your luggage. You’ll be able to squeeze a carry-on, large duffle, or 60-70 liter backpack under the seat. Large, traditional suitcases don’t fit so well. Nor will that kind of luggage fit in a tuk-tuk, which you’ll take almost daily in India. So be a smart traveler, and opt for luggage you can easily carry.

India overnight trainsWhat’s available on the train?

  • No dining car, but vendors will come by selling a limited supply of water, packaged snacks, tea, and (instant) coffee
  • Yes, there are electrical outlets, but there are only 2 in a compartment of 6 beds
  • No wifi, bring a book
  • Yes, sheets, blankets, and pillows are provided for each passenger
  • Hand sinks are in the WC, there are no showers

Safety tips from Ashish Verma, Intrepid Travel’s Contracting Manager in India:

Don’t carry too much cash on overnight trains and don’t leave any electronic gadgets unattended. Money belts should not be visible to anyone and expensive jewelry should not be worn!

Overnight train survival kit

  • Sweater
  • Earplugs
  • Sleep mask
  • Snacks
  • Water
  • Wet wipes
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Toilet paper
  • Flip flops or slippers
  • Sleeping sheet
  • Deck of cards, book or writing journal (anything non-digital) to pass the time

Ready for an incredible adventure? Check out Intrepid’s range of small group trips in India.

(Image credits from top to bottom: Intrepid Travel, Kristin Amico x2, Intrepid Travel, Kristin Amico x2, Intrepid Travel.)

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Seamus November 22, 2021 - 12:03 am

Travelling by train in India is very difficult, from organising a seat to everything else. The night journeys are a killer. The best thing is the people who are chatty and friendly.

train status August 20, 2021 - 5:39 am

Train travel in India can be an overwhelming experience. It takes meticulous planning ahead of time. We were uniquely blessed to be easily able to travel the complex and far flung vast expanses of perhaps the third largest railroad system in the world. Arguably the most used railway system as well. Without going into detail I can tell you confidently, that it was absolutely splendid! In contrast to that luxury, we also traveled on all four gauges (narrow, meter, broad and standard gauges) of the vast Indian Railways on every known classification. On some stretches the four gauges ran within and concurrently. I don’t know of any other place on the planet where that is so common over long stretches, lol!

The sound of the tracks and bewitching alpine horns as well as the archaic whistle on some old hobbies is etched in my mind. Some of the best quality REM deep sleep I’ve ver experienced was in those funder’full trips. The scenery was exquisite. Whether it was rumbling through megalopolis urban centers or the tranquil expanses of the country side (a veritable diaspora of green farmland, to the dense and foreboding jungles to the serene expanses of the many ocean beaches, the landscape was haunting. Aside from all these we also enjoyed being unhooked from the train next to a private cove with a pond or lake to camp out at. Stuff of dreams that would easily be the envy of many. Uncommon and common experiences to cherish forever.

I have to say I’m compelled to agree, it’s an !incredible !India!

Puneet Sharma February 26, 2021 - 5:30 pm

To travel by train in India is, essentially, to journey through (and with) a microcosm of the entire country.

From the second you board to the minute you alight at your journey’s end, the whole experience is intense, colourful, confronting, uncomfortable, sweaty, smelly, loud, exciting and wonderful.

Unlike flying, where you’re trapped in a row with a few other strangers, served bland food, and generally bored and cramped up within minutes of sitting in your seat, train travel gifts you an insight to Indian society and its structures.

Families share food with other passengers, chaiwallas traverse the train selling steaming cups of tea, signs blur past in foreign script, and unique landscapes flick past the window like a film.

The sights, smells and sounds of India and her people reveal themselves to you with every turn of the clacking wheels.

Simply put, there’s an energy on the trains and platforms of the Indian rail system that just doesn’t seem to exist anywhere else in the world.

With respect to food, Every city in India has its own incredible special taste and flavor. This makes food ordering online for train travel even more exciting. Order special dishes from kitchens of top-rated chefs of every city. Food gets delivered to you right at your seat when your train reaches the desired station. Order food on train online from website, mobile app or with a call. This delivery service is available at more than 250 railway stations. It covers all major 4000+ trains with no hidden charges.

Sanya Sharma February 6, 2021 - 8:59 pm

In India, it is very easy to travel by train, and also it is one of the best way to enjoy a meaning ful tour. Thanks for sharing such a beautiful information.

roshan September 3, 2020 - 4:42 pm

such an interesting blog. Thanks for sharing your experience through words and pictures.

Ds May 28, 2020 - 9:20 am

But aren’t there cockroaches in most indian trains especially at night?

Indo Industries November 14, 2019 - 7:18 pm

this blog provides all information about Indian trains. I really like all content of this blog. train in providing some service like home because some time passengers’s journey can be 2 days or more.

Carol Woodley May 10, 2019 - 2:45 am

We travelled from new delhi to Kerala(40hours) in march but in second class. The price included bedding but also 3meals a day, afternoon tea and a litre of water every 20 hours. The difference in luxury between second and third is huge and the cost not so much but I think Intrepid always use the cheaper with no option to upgrade , which is a shame.

Karen Adams February 23, 2019 - 3:56 pm

I got a first class seat on a train from Goa to Kerala. I had the whole cabin to myself, was served 3 meals could lock my door, toilet was clean and slept like a baby.


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