Writer Sean Sebastian explains how you can see Mykonos and Santorini on a Greek island-hopping trip without the crowds.
My packed bus pulls up to Piraeus harbour, Greece’s main access point for sailing to the country’s confetti of islands, as we slot neatly alongside a stately line of other tour buses and coaches. Peering out the window, I see long trails of tourists weaving their way towards the docks, clustered in groups outside enormous ferries.
After boarding, I slowly make my way through the decks, where every seat has been quickly claimed by innumerable better-prepared travellers.
Eventually, I find myself on the deck, where I sit on my bag next to other similarly unlucky travellers and watch the Aegean Sea open up in front of me. The waters that have claimed a thousand cliches about their unique shade of blue truly live up to their reputation.
As the ferry comes to a halt at Mykonos’ port several hours later, the passengers quickly huddle at exits ready to release floods of bleary-eyed tourists into the scorching Mediterranean sun.
Two days later, I weather the same stressful, sweaty experience in order to visit the most popular Cycladic island: Santorini.
But even among the masses of tourists, I find it impossible not to fall in love with each island.
Mykonos, with its whitewashed buildings and pristine coastline, is a heady blend of traditional towns and beachside bars. Meanwhile, Santorini shows off meditative blue-domed scenery stacked along volcanic cliffs, as well as great hikes and unparalleled sunsets.
So far, so guidebook. And, yes: both are essential on any Greek island-hopping trip. But at the same time, it’s easy (and sometimes devastating) to witness how they’ve found themselves on the frontline of the global struggle with overtourism. So, if you can find quieter corners, free from the crowds (as I did), why not whisper about them (very quietly) in an effort to travel more responsibly?
Mykonos
Sunsets: Little Venice or Boni’s Windmill
Cycladic sunsets rival the Aegean Sea in their attraction of a good cliche – but for good reason. Along with everyone else, I find myself starting every night on the islands quietly watching the sunset with a cold beer.
Crowds flock to the sunset bars of Mykonos Town, especially around the Little Venice area, and yes, it gets very busy. But if you have the cash to splash, it’s still a fun spot to raise a toast in the golden hour light.
However, if, like me, you only have the funds for a cheap bottle of wine, why not try climbing uphill to the main road on the eastern edge of town and sitting in front of Boni’s Windmill, a derelict hilltop landmark built in the 16th century? From this vantage point, I watch the sunset slowly touch all of Mykonos Town, bathing the unsuspecting tourist throngs below.
Beaches: Ornos and Agios Ioannis
Mykonos has a reputation for its beaches. And sure, if you’ve turned up with a group of friends and you’re all in the mood for some drinking, Paradise, Super Paradise and Kalua all offer all-day beachside parties that slowly evolve into late-nighters.
However, if you’d rather avoid the crowds but still want a buzzy atmosphere, try Ornos – home to chilled restaurant-style spots such as Pasaji. Sunbeds fill up very quickly, so arrive early. For a similar vibe on the sands of Agios Ioannis, head to relaxed Hippie Fish beach club to join locals bathing in the beautiful blue sea.
Read more: 5 quieter spots for a Greek Island getaway
Sites: Mykonos Chora (Town)
A considerable chunk of the tourists on my ferry to Mykonos head straight for the party beaches, leaving Mykonos Town relatively quiet. Seizing the opportunity, even at the height of summer, I’m able to wander through the bougainvillea-draped streets and take in the sights with ease during the quieter daytime window.
Paraportiani Church – consisting of five individual whitewashed churches – is a highlight, especially in the afternoon as the sun shines directly through the bell tower. From there, I walk down the coast and explored the famous Windmills at Kato Mili, then head into town for a baked treat from Gioras Wood Medieval Mykonian Bakery. Afterwards, I indulge myself further with a bit of shopping in some of the town’s many boutiques.
Santorini
Sunsets: Profitis Elias Hill and Firostefani
As an island cradled around a dramatic caldera, Santorini is perhaps even better placed for a sunset view, as most of its major towns sit hundreds of metres above sea level, looking down over the volcanic drama. Naturally, there’s a fantastic viewing point at all of the island’s popular hubs: Fira, Imerovigli, Oia and Firostefani.
I struggle to find a comfortable view among the crowds at Fira, even after wandering down alleys and backstreets for a glimpse. However, my favourite views materialise at Firostefani – slightly lesser known and a solid 20-minute walk along the coastal path from Fira. From here, you have the added bonus of being able to watch the sunset cascade over those iconic white buildings and their incumbent crowds, while not actually having to fight for elbow room with them.
Profitis Elias Monastery is another great sunset haunt, I discover. Sitting on its namesake mountain 567 metres above sea level, it’s the highest point on the island. To get there, hike the four-kilometre trail from Pyrogos or jump in a taxi.
Read more: What a sailing trip in Greece is really like
Beaches: Baxedes Beach, White Beach and Vlychada
Santorini doesn’t offer anywhere near as much sandy beachside lounging as Mykonos. But thanks to its volcanic landscape, there are plenty of pebbly and rocky bays where you can swim. One major contender is Perissa – a seven-kilometre, black-sand beach where you’ll find plenty of sunbeds, bars and restaurants and calm waters sheltered by Mesa Vouno mountain.
If you like the bustle, you have Kamari on the island’s east coast, or for a slightly quieter option, Kokkini Paralia (Red Beach) on the south coast, aptly named for its deep red sands and cliffs.
To get away from the crowds entirely, your best bet is to head to Baxedes Beach on the north coast, White Beach in the southwest or Vlychada – a 20-minute drive from Fira with black sand and volcanic cliffs.
Sites: the caldera rim and Akrotiri Archeological site
Though dormant, Santorini is an active volcano and the three-hour hike along the caldera rim from Fira to Oia is a must. With views of the sea on one side and the dramatic volcanic rock ahead, the walk is one of my favourite experiences in Greece.
I encounter barely another soul in sight along the way, which gives the bizarrely isolated churches along the way an almost eerie atmosphere. I’m lucky enough with my timing to find a seat in one of Oia’s many cocktail bars, ready to enjoy the view with a well-earned margarita in hand.
Akrotiri Archeological site is another highlight. This ancient city was beset by earthquakes in the 17th century BC, causing volcanic materials to cover the entire island. The remains now make up the most important archaeological site in Santorini. You’ll also learn about the Minoans and their impressive advancements. Did you know that they created the first indoor toilet? Now you do.
Extra tips for avoiding crowds
- Visit in the shoulder season: Late spring (May to early June) and early autumn (late September to mid-October) offer a good balance of great weather and fewer tourists.
- Stay in smaller villages: Staying outside the main towns tends to offer more authentic local experiences.
- Early mornings and late evenings: Try to plan your key sightseeing and beach time outside peak afternoon hours.
Ready to explore? Check out Intrepid’s small-group adventures in Greece.
Originally published in January 2019.
