This article was originally published in April 2022.
Bring your hiking boots – and your appetite – to Slovenia.
I’m sitting under an umbrella at a riverside bar in Ljubljana. Everywhere I look, there are Slovenians sipping pints of beer and munching on bar snacks.
I want something local, so I ask one of the friendly waitresses for a recommendation. She reels off so many dishes and drinks that I eventually have to get my notebook out.
It took me days to work through them all, but I’m happy to report that she knew what she was talking about – and now I’m passing them on to you.
From creamy dumplings to crisp white wines, here’s what you have to try in Slovenia.
What to eat
For its size, Slovenia has a hefty foodie scene. It claims 24 gastronomic regions and it’s easy to taste the cultural influences of neighbouring Balkan, Central European and Mediterranean countries in the food. The farm-to-table culture is strong thanks to the country’s abundant pastures, forests and meadows.
Appetisers
When you’re sitting by the river in Ljubljana and golden hour arrives, order yourself a plate of cold cuts and cheese – a go-to Slovenian appetiser. Many charcuterie items are made in Slovenia, including salami, Karst prosciutto, stuffed pig stomach (with potatoes, peppers, garlic and herbs) and Bovec cheese (a semi-hard cheese made with sheep’s milk).
For something heartier, try čompe – a simple but satisfying dish of boiled potatoes with sour cream and cottage cheese. Or sireki – a mix of cottage cheese, paprika, salt and cumin rolled into balls and eaten alone or with bread.
Mains
Slovenia doesn’t have an official national dish, but Carniolan sausage comes close. This smoked pork sausage is made with just a few ingredients – including top-quality pork, bacon, garlic and pepper – and only 11 producers are certified to make it. You’ll find it everywhere, but it’s best from a street stall with sour cabbage, mustard and crusty bread.
Slovenia is also big on dumplings. Struklji are rolled, log-shaped dumplings that are steamed or boiled, then sliced up like roulade and eaten as a main or side. They come sweet or savoury, but popular fillings include cottage cheese, walnuts or meat. Then there’s Zlikrofi dumplings, a speciality of Idrija in western Slovenia. A bit like ravioli, they’re hat-shaped and filled with a rich mix of potato, onion, lard and herbs.
If you’re craving comfort food, dig into a bowl of jota – a thick stew of smoked meat, beans, sauerkraut, turnip and potatoes. Served with buttery bread, it’s the perfect post-hike fuel.
Desserts
Lake Bled might be Slovenia’s postcard attraction, but kremsnita – its signature dessert – is just as iconic. This heavenly slab of egg custard, vanilla cream and whipped cream sandwiched between layers of filo pastry was supposedly born at Hotel Park in 1953, and while you’ll find it across the country, nothing beats trying one at the source.
Another favourite is potica, a rolled dough cake filled with walnuts, poppy seeds or honey. Enjoy it with a cup of coffee or milk tea. And speaking of layered cakes, you can’t leave without tucking into a slice of gibanica, a dense, multi-layered cake with apple, cottage cheese and walnuts separated by layers of filo dough. It’s often eaten for breakfast.
What to drink
Slovenian wine
Slovenia has been making wine for thousands of years. With over 28,000 vineyards dotted among its valleys and hills, it produces around 90 million litres of wine every year – and most of it doesn’t leave the country.
The western region of Primorska near the Italian border is renowned for many wine varieties, but especially its bold reds like Refošk (Terrano) and Cabernet Sauvignon. It includes sub-regions like Vipava Valley, only an hour’s drive from the capital, where you can taste indigenous whites like Zelen, Pinela and Pikolit.
Down south in Posavje, sample crisp whites and sparkling wines, or go north to Podravje for aromatic Riesling and Chardonnay.
But if you don’t have time to visit vineyards, Ljubljana has its fair share of chic wine bars, along with a number of wine-related events like the Ljubljana Wine Trail and the Vino Ljubljana International Trade Show.
Craft beer
If you’re eating a salty snack platter, you’ll probably want to wash it down with pivo (Slovenian beer). Slovenia has a long history of hop farming and beer brewing, and although mass-produced domestic brands like Lasko and Union still dominate the market, new microbreweries are pumping out a growing range of IPAs, sours and stouts.
One brewery making waves is Reservoir Dogs, based in the border town of Nova Gorica. Don’t leave Slovenia without trying their Grim Reaper IPA and Warrior Pale.
Spirits
While Slovenians love their beer and wine, you can’t leave without trying the national drink: schnapps. It’s known locally as ‘zganje’ and making it is a national pastime for many Slovenians (and the homemade stuff is often the best).
Thankfully, you don’t have to know anyone to sample a good glass of schnapps, as you can count on most bars to stock all sorts of flavours like pear, peach, lemon and blueberry. It’s strong stuff, so it’s often served with water and ice to dilute it. Na zdravje (cheers)!
Hungry? Join Intrepid’s Real Food Adventure in Slovenia and Croatia. Or check out other foodie adventures in Europe.
