In Boma, Sierra Leone, a vision of a mythical river spirit inspired a century of female chiefs. Today, Chief Kadie Bao is turning prophecy into progress.
In West African folklore, Mami Wata is a beautiful yet formidable water deity. Half woman, half fish, she is said to have the power to bestow both great riches and great misfortune on her human neighbours.
In Boma, a small, rural community in southeastern Sierra Leone, local legend has it that many years ago, she emerged from the nearby Moa River to visit the village chief in a dream, warning that if he wanted Boma to prosper, then the next chief would have to be a woman.
It’s an impressive tale – especially when you learn that not only did the man in power listen (!) and willingly disrupt the patriarchy, but that Boma’s chiefs have been women ever since. Mami Wata, it appears, is not to be messed with. Current leader, Chief Kadie Bao, has an additional explanation for the switch, arguably more rooted in reality – but perhaps simply reflecting what sparked Mami Wata’s concerns: ‘With male chiefs, there were lots of issues and unrest.’
Generations of leadership
Chief Kadie comes from a long line of matriarchs. ‘It all started with my great-grandmother, who was the first female chief here. Then my grandmother, my mother after her and now me,’ she says.
Despite being born into such a powerful matrilineal line, one with the divine approval of Mami Wata herself, Chief Kadie didn’t always necessarily dream of being a leader. As a child, watching her mother take responsibility for the welfare of a whole village, she wondered if she was up for the task. But ultimately, she couldn’t deny her calling. ‘I knew I wanted to make a change in the lives of our people,’ she says.
Leadership may be in her blood, but the chief’s seat isn’t handed down by birthright; Kadie had to run for the position like any other political candidate. Boma’s chiefs are elected by the community of just over 300 residents, who rely on their chosen leader to mediate interdistrict conflicts and work to bring peace and prosperity to all. Chief Kadie got off to a flying start, overseeing the construction of a guesthouse and installation of six public toilets and solar lighting, as well as introducing new health and social care initiatives – all within the first six months of her leadership.
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Bossing it in Boma
If Chief Kadie is ever overwhelmed by her responsibilities, she doesn’t show it. She leads with a quiet, constant dedication and rarely gets a day off. When she does get a rare chance to rest, she likes to spend it on her farm, tending to her crops. Rural Boma’s economy is reliant on agriculture, with locals growing rice, cacao, palm and cassava to feed themselves and earn a living.
Community-based tourism is on the rise, too. And from 2026, Intrepid travellers will receive a warm welcome from Chief Kadie and other Boma residents on the new Sierra Leone Adventure. After a tour of the village, which sits on the jungled banks of the Moa River, visitors can help plant or harvest rice, learn about mysterious local customs (pounding yams or cassava at night, for example, or walking through the village with an uncovered fanner, or rice basket, are strictly forbidden) and, if brave enough, attempt to join in with the traditional ‘devil dance’, performed to frenetic drum beats and accompanied by shimmying costumed characters.
But for Chief Kadie, welcoming travellers to the village is about more than cultural exchange; it’s an opportunity to improve the lives of those in her community. ‘Meeting people from all over the world is a blessing,’ she says. ‘Their support has been felt widely and deeply. Travellers benefit from learning about our way of life here and witnessing our cultural activities. [The financial benefit we get in return enables us to provide] educational scholarships, skills training and proper healthcare for [our people].
‘I want to be remembered as the chief that brought [positive] changes to Boma village. Infrastructural development like schools, clinics and good roads,’ she says.
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The future is female
One day, when the time comes for Boma to find a new chief, there’s a good chance that Chief Kadie’s daughter, Amy, will be in the running to take the mantle – but it’s not a given. ‘It’s up to [her] to decide whether she contests or not. Our people will decide who my successor will be through their votes,’ she says.
For Chief Kadie, leadership isn’t about ego. Or keeping power in the family. It’s about doing right by her people. Whoever succeeds her, their path has been paved by generations of powerful, strong-minded women – with a little help from a fierce water goddess – and they need to be up for the challenge.
Her advice for future leaders in Boma and beyond? ‘You must be compassionate and have love for your people. [Prioritise] their interests. Listen to their needs and provide solutions to their problems without asking for anything in return’.
Sage advice for not only the next generation, but perhaps current global leaders too.
Meet Chief Kadie Bao with Intrepid on the new Sierra Leone Adventure: History, Culture & Nature trip and find out what else is new for 2026 with The Goods – a collection of new trips and experiences to inspire a year of adventure.
