{"id":95945,"date":"2026-09-15T18:38:31","date_gmt":"2026-09-15T08:38:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=95945"},"modified":"2026-09-15T18:38:34","modified_gmt":"2026-09-15T08:38:34","slug":"osaka-beyond-landmarks","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/osaka-beyond-landmarks\/","title":{"rendered":"Can you really see a city without ticking off *any* landmarks? Osaka says hell yes you can"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Is the way we’re travelling today changing? Less about ticking off the same sights, more about uncovering the essence of a place, as Todd Fong discovers on a new tour in Osaka.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The angry face of chef Yoshie Momono glares down at me from the second-storey window. Although not the real man himself, but a lifelike plastic reproduction of the restaurant\u2019s founder, it\u2019s an intimidating introduction to the original Shinsekai district location of the now-ubiquitous Osaka<\/a> chain restaurant, Kushikatsu Daruma.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Happily, the sense of foreboding quickly subsides upon sliding open the door and hearing the hearty greeting of \u2018irasshaimase!\u2019 of the two friendly chefs behind the counter. The genuine welcome, along with the playful banter I receive across throughout the meal, reminds me why Osakans have a reputation for being among the friendliest and most straightforward people in Japan<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Osaka's
The playful chefs at Osaka’s original Kushikatsu Daruma restaurant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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It\u2019s a reputation that\u2019s important, because despite Osaka\u2019s many charms, it isn\u2019t built to compete with the Shinto shrines and UNESCO World Heritage Sites of older sister, Kyoto, or the statuesque super towers of younger sibling, Tokyo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Because apart from Osaka Castle perhaps, the excellent Kaiyukan Aquarium or the pop-culture attraction Universal Studios Japan, there simply aren\u2019t any major attractions in Osaka. Yet, curiously, the city still ranks among Japan\u2019s most popular destinations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, what are the other qualities that make Osaka so irresistible? And is it indicative of the way we\u2019re all travelling today: less diverted by bricks and mortar, more lured by the pull of place and people?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My guide Kazu from Intrepid Urban Adventures<\/a> set out to help me discover exactly that on a new tour<\/a> that delves into Osaka\u2019s subcultures \u2013 its vintage stores, working-class history, otaku obsession with arcades and video games, and, of course, its proud place as \u2018tenka no daidokoro\u2019 (the nation\u2019s kitchen) \u2013 over any one single sight, physical landmark or designated attraction.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: Where to go in Japan based on your travel vibes<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Shops<\/figure><\/div>
\"Street<\/figure>
\"The<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The underrated history of Japan\u2019s third-largest city<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

To start with, most people know little about Osaka\u2019s importance in Japanese history. From the 16th-floor observatory of the Abeno Harukas building near Tennoji Station, Kazu reveals little-known facts about the city to me: its brief stint as the nation\u2019s capital nearly 1,300 years ago; its importance as a port of both international and domestic trade along the many waterways connected to it; its strategic value for the warlords who sought to unite Japan under one military leader, the Shogun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From the observatory, the size of the city is evident, from the low-lying sprawl of working-class neighbourhoods to the shimmering skyscrapers of Umeda in the Kita business district.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

During our half-day adventure, we will focus mainly on the Minami entertainment districts, where Osakan businesspeople come to unwind after a long day\u2019s work, starting in Shinsekai, \u2018The New World\u2019. \u202f<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Inspired by early-20th-century New York City and Paris, Shinsekai has seen its share of Osaka’s history. It was founded as a model neighbourhood of the future in 1912. After WW2, it began to devolve into a seedy red-light district where organised crime ruled the streets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: Things to do in Japan that most solo travellers miss<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Intrepid<\/figure><\/div>
\"Osaka's<\/figure>
\"Gaming<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

But in recent years, Shinsekai has managed to shed its less attractive elements while maintaining its nostalgic atmosphere. Today\u2019s Shinsekai is a gaudy collection of neon signs and lanterns advertising an enormous array of izakaya standing bars and more wholesome entertainment establishments, such as pachinko parlours and retro-gaming arcades.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s in one of these arcades that I relive my high-school days, playing Street Fighter on an old-school console like it\u2019s 1987. Ah, the sweet memories of getting my ass kicked by computer-controlled Ryu is something that can\u2019t be savoured in any other way. I could easily spend our entire tour reliving my childhood, but thankfully Kazu is there to remind me we have a lot more to see \u2013 and eat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Seafood<\/figure><\/div>
\"Kazu,<\/figure>
\"A<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Eat, shop and play like an Osakan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Seated at the counter of Kushikatsu Daruma, Kazu introduces me to one of Osaka’s post-war soul foods: kushikatsu. This dish, along with the equally loved takoyaki (fried octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savoury pancake), was created as a cheap, quick meal for day labourers in the early 20th century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Originally deep-fried strips of cheap cuts of beef and potato on skewers, kushikatsu has since evolved \u2013 to the point where if something tastes better fried, then why not fry it?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seafood, quail eggs, vegetables and even cheese are all viable ingredients, deep-fried in a batter of egg, wheat flour and panko breadcrumbs. These addictive bite-sized dishes are then dipped in a bowl of tonkatsu sauce \u2013 but never, ever double-dipped. If you need a bit more sauce, take a piece of the sliced cabbage served as a side and scoop a bit more sauce to drip on your kushikatsu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

During the meal, the playful chefs also explain a bit about the chain\u2019s 97-year history, showing us photos of major Japanese celebrities who\u2019ve dined there and introducing me to other guests as \u2018the writer for the New York Times\u2019, which I\u2019m unfortunately not. The playful, lively atmosphere is quite different from many Tokyo establishments, where your goal is to eat in silent solitude and vacate your seat as quickly as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Late<\/figure><\/div>
\"The<\/figure><\/div>
\"Shotengai,<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

After lunch, Kazu navigates us through nostalgic shotengai, covered streets lined with shops, bars and restaurants catering to locals \u2013 Japan\u2019s precursor to the shopping mall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some of these shops seem to have not aged past the late Showa Era, a period when Japan rapidly grew into a manufacturing and economic powerhouse in the mid to late 20th century. Osaka staples from the Showa Era, like neon leopard-print blouses, are still proudly on sale on the same streets where tiny standing bars are hangouts for retired salarymen who have been regulars there for 40 years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We breeze through Den Den Town, Osaka\u2019s sibling to Tokyo\u2019s Akihabara. Both evolved from a collection of electronics shops and street vendors into meeting places for otaku: people obsessed with the character culture of anime, manga and video games.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Den Den Town is where you can learn what your collection of Nintendo 64 games would be worth if you still owned them or purchase a rare $10,000 Pokemon card, if you have the cash going spare. Since none of those items are on my radar, we make our way instead to Kuromon Market to indulge in another round of bites in the \u2018nation’s kitchen\u2019.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: 11 things to seek out on your next trip to Japan<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Food<\/figure><\/div>
\"A<\/figure>
\"A<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The soul of Osaka is in its food<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Like many downtown markets, Kuromon was, and still is, a place where locals gather to socialise in bars and restaurants, shop for supplies and sundries, or just kill time. Although signs of tourism are beginning to surface among some of the vendors, you can still find shops selling high-quality slices of sashimi and premium fruit at prices made for locals \u2013 and street vendors calling out to passersby like it\u2019s 1967.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What you won\u2019t find are sushi restaurants serving $200 omakase set menus or boutiques selling luxury branded goods. Look around you: you\u2019re among the real Osakans here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, we eat like local Osakans, enjoying street food such as fresh, spicy tsukemono (pickled vegetables), obanyaki (a pancake-like dessert stuffed with red bean or custard) and cups of mixed juice. Osaka is known for high-quality mixed juices made from unsold premium fruit on the verge of overripening, to keep it from going to waste. Frugality is another trademark in working-class Osaka: a city where everything serves a purpose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: Everything I wish I knew before going to Japan<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Advertising<\/figure><\/div>
\"Takoyaki<\/figure><\/div>
\"The<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Our final destination is the closest thing to a true landmark we see today: Dotonbori, with its iconic neon-lit riverside, featuring the Glico Running Man. While the image is world-famous, the story behind it isn\u2019t: Kazu explains that Glico\u2019s founder learned that glycogen could be extracted from oyster broth as a health additive to his caramel candies. One piece of caramel was said to give you enough energy to run 300 metres, for those who cared to measure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Oddly specific riverside advertising isn\u2019t the only thing Dotonbori is famous for, however. Next, we pause to partake in one more of Osaka\u2019s famous soul foods: takoyaki.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the uninitiated, takoyaki is a chunk of octopus tentacle encased in a ball of fried batter, ideally crispy on the outside and unexpectedly hotter than molten lava inside, capable of searing your brain from inside your mouth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite its slightly unappetising description and associated consumption hazards, takoyaki are actually delicious enough to be eaten by the thousands on any given day in Osaka. Kazu\u2019s shop of choice is Honke Otako Dotonbori, chosen for its unusually large chunks of octopus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After a brief digestive stroll along the main street, with its enormous, elaborate signboards advertising a visual cacophony of restaurants, bars and shops, we finally reach Ebisu Bridge, under the Glico sign.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bidding goodbye to Kazu, I reflect that although we\u2019ve seen nothing in particular today, in a day notably short on monuments, I feel I\u2019ve experienced the real Osaka, which, like its residents, is unpretentious, honest and full of good humour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In an age where it often feels like travel has been reduced to repetitive replaying of the same-same social media greatest hits list, isn\u2019t that all we\u2019re really looking for, after all? Something authentic, shared between you and a place, that can\u2019t be replicated on anyone else\u2019s reel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Discover<\/strong> the new Retro Streets & Local Eats Adventure<\/a><\/strong> with Intrepid Urban Adventures.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Image credit: Photography shot on location by Todd Fong<\/a> with Intrepid Urban Adventures.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n

Big Japan trips to match your Urban Adventure<\/h2>
Japan Real Food Adventure<\/a><\/div>
11 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Ultimate Japan<\/a><\/div>
23 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Southern Japan Experience<\/a><\/div>
12 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Is the way we’re travelling today changing? Todd Fong considers the question on a new attraction-free tour of Osaka. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":16424,"featured_media":95954,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_ef_editorial_meta_date_first-draft-date":"","_ef_editorial_meta_paragraph_assignment":"","_ef_editorial_meta_checkbox_needs-photo":"","_ef_editorial_meta_number_word-count":"","_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[3109],"tags":[21,1505],"class_list":["post-95945","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-good-trips","tag-japan","tag-osaka"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCan you see a city without ticking off *any* landmarks? 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