{"id":86930,"date":"2025-10-21T20:13:00","date_gmt":"2025-10-21T09:13:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=86930"},"modified":"2026-03-02T15:44:24","modified_gmt":"2026-03-02T04:44:24","slug":"cooking-class-nepal","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/cooking-class-nepal\/","title":{"rendered":"Kitchen confidential: How one Tibetan refugee keeps her culture simmering in Nepal"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

On a Women\u2019s Expedition in Nepal with Intrepid, writer Cliona Elliott joins a cooking class with refugee-turned-chef Dolma Thundup to learn the art of making dumplings with a side serving of resilience.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018This is Dolma. You can call her Aunty,\u2019 says Keshu, our Intrepid group leader, as we sit around a garden table beneath hibiscus and papaya trees. Prayer flags flutter along the roof. A neighbour sweeps their porch. Chickens peck across the grass. For a moment, I almost forget we\u2019re just minutes from the city of Pokhara, Nepal<\/a>\u2019s busy gateway to the Annapurna Circuit<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018Dhanyabaad (thank you),\u2019 we say, as Dolma hands out lemonade and khapse (deep-fried pastry twists). But before we get too<\/em> comfy, she leads us through a white-curtained door into the kitchen. ‘Today we make momos,\u2019 she announces, pulling out chopping boards and utensils.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The room fills with chatter, clanging knives and the smell of fresh garlic and ginger, as shredded cabbage and ribbons of carrot pile up on the worktop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: One woman\u2019s remarkable route to climbing Everest<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Momos<\/figure><\/div>
\"Refugee-turned-chef<\/figure>
\"Prayer<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Momos on the move<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In many ways, Dolma’s story is folded into the fine flour that makes up momos themselves \u2013 the two stories impossible to sift. Like the half-moon-shaped dumpling, Dolma is Tibetan. Although she was born in Nepal, her family migrated here following the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950, which led to a decade of repression that culminated in the Tibetan Uprising of 1959.

A brutal crackdown from Chinese authorities ensued, killing and injuring thousands, and sparking fears for the safety of the Dalai Lama, Tibet\u2019s spiritual leader. He escaped to Dharamsala in northern India where he set up the Tibetan Government-in-exile, and thousands of asylum seekers followed him to safer refuges around the world. By 1960, over 80,000 Tibetans \u2013 including Dolma\u2019s parents \u2013 had fled to Nepal, India and Bhutan.

With them, they brought their cherished recipes from home. And while momos first travelled to Nepal as far back as the 14th century \u2013 introduced by itinerant Newari merchants \u2013 there\u2019s no doubt that the movement of Tibetan refugees in the 20th century helped spread the appeal of this delicious staple throughout South Asia and beyond.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: Meet the women changing the narrative in Nepal<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"A<\/figure><\/div>
\"Dolma<\/figure>
\"Dolma<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Aunty knows best<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Dolma floats around the kitchen, chatting away while keeping a watchful eye on proceedings. \u2018No, no, not like that,\u2019 she chides Sue, a recently retired science teacher from Boston, USA, who\u2019s wrist-deep in a bowl of chicken mince.

A few of us exchange giddy glances, our lips lightly pursed like school kids trying not to laugh in class. Dolma runs a tight ship, with the strict-yet-loving approach that only someone called \u2018Aunty\u2019 can have.

Next comes the seasoning. The key to a tasty momo is a spice mix called momo masala \u2013 a fragrant blend including cumin, mustard seed, fenugreek, coriander seed and chilli. After sizzling ginger and garlic in a splash of oil, she adds a generous sprinkle of salt and the masala to form a paste, and then folds it into the momo mixture.

With the fillings ready, it\u2019s time to prepare the dough. Dolma trickles water into a pile of flour before asking Zuzana, my trip roommate from London, to take over. She soon gets into the swing of it, head rocking rhythmically back and forth as she kneads. It\u2019s strangely therapeutic to watch \u2013 and it’s in this moment of meditative calm, all gathered around the kitchen bench, that Dolma begins to share her story.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Writer<\/figure><\/div>
\"Dolma<\/figure>
\"Boudha<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Life as a Tibetan refugee<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u2018My parents fled Tibet in 1959 and came to Pokhara in 1964,\u2019 she begins. \u2018They travelled across the mountains and stayed with a family near the [western] Dolpo\/Mustang border. They didn\u2019t have any money, but the Nepali people offered food \u2013 flour, rice, things like that \u2013 in exchange for dancing, singing or working in the fields. Around 700 Tibetans came to Pokhara, but now there are only 400 in this settlement. I was born and raised here.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dolma is the eldest of three sisters, both of whom are now married. Her father lived with her until he passed away several years ago.

\u2018We all [used to] live together before, but now I live alone so I need to make money. My sisters helped me to build my home.\u2019

Sue asks if she could move somewhere else in Nepal, if she wanted to. \u2018It\u2019s not possible unless you marry. But these days, many young people get married and settle in other places.\u2019

Refugees in Nepal \u2013 including second- and third-generation Tibetans \u2013 generally can’t claim citizenship, own property or access government services and higher education. The Tibetan Government-in-exile can provide a Green Book that acts as an identity document, but it’s not recognised for travel. Dolma is essentially stateless.

\u2018It\u2019s hard to get a job as I don\u2019t have much education, but Intrepid is supporting me through each group like you. Now I\u2019m making money,\u2019 she says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n
Nepal: Women's Expedition<\/a><\/div>
13 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Classic Nepal<\/a><\/div>
11 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Everest Base Camp Trek<\/a><\/div>
15 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Before starting the cooking classes, Dolma sold jewellery and souvenirs at a street stall. She began working with Intrepid in 2019 and is one of the many female-owned businesses Intrepid partners with on the Nepal Women\u2019s Expedition. The trip is part of a series of female-led Women\u2019s Expeditions launched in 2018, which aim to help break down barriers of traditional, male-dominated tourism and allow travellers to connect with and learn about the lives of local women.

We tell her we\u2019re very happy to meet her. \u2018Me too, me too,\u2019 she replies. \u2018When I talk about this, I get emotional.\u2019 She isn\u2019t the only one blinking back tears.

As well as momos, Dolma teaches groups how to make thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup) and dal bhat (Nepal\u2019s national dish of lentils and rice). But her first love is momos. \u2018I learned how to make momos at home with my mama,\u2019 Dolma says. \u2018We cooked them for family gatherings, festivals and special occasions. When I was a child, we were very happy when we made momos. We ate many. Sometimes 10 or 12 big ones.\u2019 At roughly the size of a tennis ball, this is an impressive feat.

She also tells me she loves meeting people from all over the world. \u2018It makes me happy. It\u2019s a new experience every time. We share stories, sometimes funny stories. I feel very grateful. I never thought I\u2019d teach momo classes.\u2019

Despite the reflective mood, Dolma quickly reminds us that she hasn\u2019t for one moment taken her eye off our efforts. \u2018Ah, now<\/em> it\u2019s good!\u2019 she says, poking her index finger into the mound of dough Zuzana\u2019s being tirelessly kneading.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: The female leader challenging gender norms in Nepal<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Writer<\/figure><\/div>
\"The<\/figure>
\"A<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Pinch and roll<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Assembling the momos is the final step. Half the group rolls and cuts the dough into discs; the rest stuff and seal them into neat, appetising shapes, which it turns out is quite tricky.

\u2018No, too big! Ooh, la la,\u2019 says Dolma.

\u2018Not too much meat!\u2019 (This was my problem.)

Dolma demonstrates how to do it again, our eyes glued to her hands as she delicately closes it within seconds. \u2018Pinch, roll. Pinch, roll. You see? You need to say it from your mouth to do it.\u2019 And she\u2019s right. This chant seems to help us turn a corner. \u2018That\u2019s better now. Good.\u2019

In fact, Ashling from Perth, Australia, is that good at sealing them, Dolma informs her she\u2019s going to get a good husband. I place my slightly mangled momo on my palm in front of her and ask whether I share a similar fate \u2013 though I think I already know the answer.

She grins. \u2018Ok, mayyybe<\/em> husband will come.’

It takes a little while, but we end up with about 50 momos \u2013 enough to fill two large steaming baskets. Dolma sets the timer and fixes up some achar (pickle) while they cook. Achar tastes different wherever you go in Nepal, but Dolma makes hers by simmering tomato, onion, garlic, chilli, cumin and turmeric into a sauce, letting it cool, then blitzing it with hemp seeds. Once it\u2019s nice and creamy, she tosses in a handful of chopped coriander and it\u2019s good to go.

After 12 hot and hungry minutes, we finally hear that much anticipated \u2018DING!\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"The<\/figure><\/div>
\"The<\/figure>
\"Ready<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Made with Tibetan love<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

With everyone sitting around the table, we pile our plates with momos, lashings of achar and chunks of cucumber. The achar has a perfect balance of tanginess and heat, the momos are steamed to perfection and the cucumber adds a cool, refreshing crunch.

The chatter fades, save for the occasional \u2018yum\u2019, and most of us go back for seconds.

\u2018They\u2019re made with love,\u2019 I hear someone say at the other end of the table. \u2018Tibetan love,\u2019 adds Keshu.

Dolma smiles. \u2018Yes, made with Tibetan love.\u2019

Another alarm suddenly rings out.

\u2018That\u2019s not more momos, is it?\u2019 Kristen from Adelaide, Australia, asks, eyes wide with concern. \u2018No,\u2019 I laugh. \u2018It\u2019s just her phone ringing.\u2019

\u2018Oh, thank god,\u2019 she exhales. I\u2019m relieved too. Even though I\u2019m full to the brim, if Dolma walks out with more, I won\u2019t be able to say no.

I ate my fair share of momos in Nepal, but none came close to Dolma\u2019s. It wasn\u2019t just meat and vegetables folded into that dough. It was the resilience of the Tibetan people, her passion for sharing her culture and the strength of a woman carving a path forward despite the obstacles in her way.

Dolma shared that if all goes well, she\u2019d like to open a small cafe one day. And for the sake of everyone visiting Pokhara, I really hope she does, so that more people can taste Dolma’s momos \u2013 made with Tibetan love.

Master the art of making momos with Dolma on Intrepid\u2019s Nepal: Women\u2019s Expedition<\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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