{"id":86612,"date":"2025-10-14T22:10:36","date_gmt":"2025-10-14T11:10:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=86612"},"modified":"2025-10-15T03:19:30","modified_gmt":"2025-10-14T16:19:30","slug":"travel-health-scare","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/travel-health-scare\/","title":{"rendered":"How I coped with a family health scare 6000 miles from home"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

As Lisa VanderVeen\u2019s dad underwent an operation back home, she found friendship and flexibility from her local leader and group in Armenia.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018Love you\u2019, I told my dad back home in the States, not wanting our FaceTime call from my hotel room in Yerevan, Armenia<\/a>, to end. As I hung up, the tears came. I\u2019d known when I left for this trip that he would be having an atherectomy \u2013 a procedure to clear plaque from the arteries around his heart \u2013 while I was away. But I\u2019d chosen to go anyway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He\u2019s always encouraged me to follow my heart, even when his betrayed him, so I\u2019d compartmentalised the hospital visit ahead of the trip \u2013 a distant date on the calendar. But now the day was here and I wished I was home. What if this was the last time I talked to him?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I was halfway through Intrepid\u2019s 11-day Georgia and Armenia Explorer<\/a> trip, part of a broader five-week itinerary to Central Asia and the Caucasus. I\u2019d loved Georgia on a previous adventure \u2013 dodging cows on long hikes through the Caucasus Mountains and trekking to Shkhara glacier \u2013 and this journey covered areas I hadn\u2019t seen before. Back then, Armenia, with its monasteries and markets, hadn\u2019t registered on my travel radar and I was excited to explore its rich history now, along with Georgia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: Feasting on a home-cooked supra in Georgia<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Crumbling<\/figure><\/div>
\"Tskaltubo<\/figure>
\"After<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Exploring the off-course Caucasus<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Over the past few days, we\u2019d visited decrepit, crumbling Soviet spas in the resort town of Tskaltubo, learning about the history of Georgia\u2019s mineral hot springs and the state-sponsored treatments Soviet citizens received as part of their health care.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The facilities, used from the 1920s until the collapse of the USSR in 1991, were eerie in the best way. A lover of urban decay, I\u2019d meandered through five different sanitariums, marvelling at the peeling wallpaper and chipped paint, a dining room with a tree growing in it and another room with a pair of forsaken high heels that made me wonder about their story.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Otias
The curios-packed interiors of Otias Ezo winery<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

At Otias Ezo, a local winery owned and run by the descendants of the famous Georgian author, Otia Ioseliani, we\u2019d explored his two-storey study, filled with ephemera from an illustrious career, preserved since his death.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here, we also sampled homemade cider and Georgia\u2019s famous amber wine, so-called because of the use of skins, stems and other parts of the grape plant, which paint the wine with a distinctive orange hue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally, on our way from Georgia to the Armenian border, we stopped at Vardzia, the ruins of a 12th-century sprawling cave monastery complex, where we\u2019d ducked through narrow doorways and climbed ladders to see medieval murals in the Church of Dormition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Looking out from the ancient hillside caves over the valley below, the profundity of passing generations gnawed at me. I hope he makes it through this, I\u2019d thought, with the atherectomy just days away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"The
The vertiginous pathways of the Vardzia cave monastery<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

A departure from the familiar<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019ve always had a close relationship with my dad. In long conversations, shared over our mutual coffee addiction (his black, mine with milk), we regularly discuss everything from his hobbies (composing music, sculpture, poetry) to my job as a school administrator, my budding writing career and my daughter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Through it all, he\u2019s always been my biggest supporter and I\u2019ve supported him through his degenerative heart disease, which he\u2019s had for over two decades. This procedure, we hoped, would alleviate the debilitating fatigue he\u2019d been experiencing over the past year. Still, each time he goes under anaesthetic and a tube is threaded through him, it could kill him. At 85, a \u2018minimally invasive\u2019 procedure felt newly precarious.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n
Georgia & Armenia Explorer<\/a><\/div>
11 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Premium Turkey & the Caucasus<\/a><\/div>
30 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Azerbaijan, Georgia & Armenia Adventure<\/a><\/div>
20 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

On the hotel bed in Yerevan, I curled up in a ball. His procedure was tomorrow. I opened my phone to scroll the itinerary for the next few days and it sounded impossible to miss: a 1000-year-old monastery in the shadow of Mt Ararat (reputed to be the final resting place of Noah\u2019s Ark), lunch with a local family, comparing Armenian winemaking to the Georgian methods in a lush vineyard, a hike through Dilijan National Park and a swim in Lake Sevan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But we were set to stay in a simple lodge where the facilities were likely to be sparse. I worried about whether there would be reliable wi-fi. What if my family couldn\u2019t get in touch with me? What if I needed to fly home and was far from an airport? My stomach clenched at the thought of being stuck.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"The
A member of the group shows solidarity to the writer while separated<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Following my instinct amid new friends<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I texted Yulia, our local leader. \u2018My dad is having a medical procedure tomorrow. I think I need to stay in Yerevan, in case I need to fly home. Am I able to stay at this hotel?\u2019 It felt uncomfortable to diverge from the group, which in the previous days had bonded closely over charcuterie and wine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yulia jumped into action, asking whether he was alright, whether I was OK and, most importantly, how she could help. She quickly arranged an extension to my stay at the hotel so I wouldn\u2019t have to change rooms, asked what I planned to do in Yerevan after the group left and whether I needed help booking excursions. The next day, as the group left me to continue our itinerary, she checked in repeatedly, texting me from the road \u2013 a calm anchor in the storm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My fellow travellers formed a remote ring of support around me, too. A new friend from Belgium texted a photo of her wine glass raised before a dusky vineyard with a note that read: \u2018This one is for your dad\u2019. Another of our group texted that she\u2019d said a prayer for him at the monastery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Returning<\/figure><\/div>
\"The<\/figure><\/div>
\"Looking<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

A homecoming before the homecoming<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Back in Yerevan, I awaited news. Needing to stay busy, I went to the launderette and washed clothes, finding comfort in familiar tasks. I made an appointment for a pedicure, comforted by the soaking of heels that had spent a month walking the Silk Road. As my nails dried, I received a text from my stepmum. It was over. He was awake and recovering. I exhaled, wiping tears of relief from my eyes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the Intrepid group returned to Yerevan the next day, we met for a farewell dinner that felt like a homecoming. A garland of lights lit the warm evening air as we dined al fresco in a courtyard, overhung by green foliage. Raising glasses of champagne, we toasted a beautiful tour, new friendships and the possibilities of travel. Yulia hugged me. \u2018I\u2019m glad he\u2019s okay. You did the right thing\u2019. I felt assured I had.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As a member of the \u2018sandwich generation\u2019, with a dependent 22-year-old daughter and ageing parents, committing to travel is often hard. There\u2019s always a possibility that family ties might suddenly call me back home. But travel, by definition, is letting go of control, and my time in Georgia and Armenia taught me I will always choose to stretch beyond my comfort zone \u2013 because I know that\u2019s what my dad would want for me, too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lisa VanderVeen travelled on Intrepid\u2019s 11-day Georgia and Armenia Explorer<\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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