{"id":86385,"date":"2025-10-02T19:22:11","date_gmt":"2025-10-02T09:22:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=86385"},"modified":"2025-10-08T07:14:53","modified_gmt":"2025-10-07T20:14:53","slug":"returning-to-colombia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/returning-to-colombia\/","title":{"rendered":"Rediscovering Colombia: The unexpected joy of revisiting a place"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Writer Glynn Pogue first visited South America<\/a> as a backpacker, thinking she\u2019d never return. But an Intrepid group trip changed her perspective.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The last time I was in Colombia<\/a> I was a broke recent graduate backpacking along the Caribbean coast with my best friend. We hitched rides and took buses, sleeping in hostels and hammocks, until we arrived in La Guajira \u2013 an otherworldly place that forms a natural full stop at the very end of the country where the desert meets the sea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After ten days of lush rainforests, lively beach towns and desert, in my mind I\u2019d \u2018done\u2019 Colombia. Next, I wanted new passport stamps, new experiences\u2026 After all, what more could one country give me?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A lot, it turns out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Taking<\/figure><\/div>
\"Writers<\/figure><\/div>
\"The<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Treading new ground in Colombia<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I return nearly seven years later as a whole new woman, lured back as a mentor on Intrepid<\/a>\u2019s annual BIPOC mentorship trip \u2013 which encourages diverse voices in travel writing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This time, I\u2019m not just travelling: I\u2019m sharing what I\u2019ve learned about the road and storytelling, and seeing how much more sure of myself I\u2019ve become; finally gainfully employed, a little more settled, a little less directionless \u2013 but maybe also a little less idealistic than I was back then, when what lay ahead felt so unknown.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This time around my journey begins in Salento \u2013 a sleepy, storybook town ensconced in the Cocora Valley, west of Bogota, that\u2019s home to the tallest palm trees in the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n
Best of Colombia<\/a><\/div>
15 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Coastal Colombia<\/a><\/div>
8 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Colombia Adventure & Lost City Trek<\/a><\/div>
15 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Ready to experience the Best of Colombia<\/a> adventure, my group and I arrive at our colourful guesthouse just after sunset. At nearly 6200 feet above sea level, high up in the Andes, we are in the clouds, every surface, every plant, blanketed in a light dew \u2013 the softest haze cloaking my arms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There\u2019s a magic to Salento \u2013 it\u2019s quiet and quaint, every building painted in vibrant hues of purple, pink, orange and blue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first contrast I experience is the food. In Salento\u2019s coffee region, it\u2019s wholly different from what I\u2019d sampled on the coast, and what I associated Colombian cuisine with after my first trip. Instead of coconut rice and fried red snapper, we dig into trucha al ajillo \u2013 garlic trout, a regional speciality thanks to the area\u2019s rivers \u2013 with a side of fresh avocado. One thing remains unchanged, however: the Aguila lager I wash it down with is as familiar as an old friend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Members<\/figure><\/div>
\"Riding<\/figure><\/div>
\"In<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Riding through the land of dinosaurs<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

An atmospheric early morning downpour greets us through the shutters of our guesthouse before we head out to spend the day standing in an open-air Jeep zipping through the Cocora Valley. After the rainfall, clouds hang low like stretched cotton above our heads and cows amble freely on the road beside us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Cocora Valley is part of Los Nevados National Natural Park and home to Colombia\u2019s national tree \u2013 the wax palm \u2013 which can grow up to 200 feet tall. My group and I joke that we could be in Jurassic Park \u2013 that at any moment a pterodactyl might just swoop down. That\u2019s how massive and dramatic the valley is, with its rolling hills, towering trees and the greenest of greens everywhere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s the kind of view that rearranges you: reminding you how small you are and how big the world remains. We learn, though, that deforestation is continuously threatening these delicate ecosystems. The same towering palms that have stood for centuries could vanish \u2013 despite the efforts of those trying to protect them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Later that afternoon, we play rounds of tejo, the country\u2019s national game, tossing heavy metal discs at small targets laced with gunpowder. It\u2019s loud and rowdy and feels like a sport made for catharsis. No one hits the target for almost the entire time, but when someone finally does, we lose our minds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Exploring<\/figure><\/div>
\"Learning<\/figure>
\"Staying<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Waking up to smell the coffee<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

From Salento, we journey further into the centre to Chinchin\u00e1, a small town in the heart of Colombia\u2019s coffee region. At a family run coffee finca, we sleep through thunderstorms, wake up to the smell of damp earth and fresh brews and watch hummingbirds flit past.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The gentle rhythm of early mornings and slow dinners \u2013 breaking bread with my group over candlelight, talking about love, about faith, about change \u2013 makes me realise how much more present I\u2019ve become. At 22, I would have missed the chance to really stop and listen; now, I sit with it all \u2013 the laughter, the stories, the silences\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thanks to its tropical altitude and fertile volcanic soil, Colombia is one of the world\u2019s largest coffee producers. At the finca, we learn about all the nuances growing the crop and I find myself touched by the care and tenderness with which the farmers handle the land, speaking about the brews like they\u2019re rare wine vintages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: Trekking to Colombia\u2019s ancient Ciudad Perdida<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"The<\/figure><\/div>
\"Streetside<\/figure><\/div>
\"One<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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A complicated crossroads in Medellin<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

After several days in nature, my city girl sensibilities kick back in when we arrive in Medellin. I welcome the faster pace, the bright lights and the crush of traffic jams. But Medellin is also a complicated city. One of innovation and inequality. We talk openly about it all with our guide Daniela, who shares the ways the city is transforming in the post-Escobar era and how the people here speak with a kind of melodic sweetness, like they\u2019re always half-singing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our first afternoon is spent in Moravia, once Medellin\u2019s largest trash dump, where people build homes on top of mountains of waste. However, over the years, the community has turned Moravia into something else entirely \u2013 a place with gardens, murals and green spaces growing out of what used to be landfill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We take a series of cable cars to get there \u2013 awed by Medellin\u2019s vastness, as we float above the city\u2019s rooftops. When we arrive in Moravia, we walk up mural-painted stairways, past vendors de-scaling fish and motorcycles weaving their way through narrow streets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Locals<\/figure><\/div>
\"Exploring<\/figure><\/div>
\"Pictures<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Music bumps in the backdrop as our local hosts, Angela and her twin sister, Cielo, welcome us into their home with such sincerity, it feels like we\u2019re being invited into something, not just observing it. They introduce us to local children in the barrio who lead us to their community garden, where each points proudly at a plant and proclaims its name in English.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our time in Medellin shows me a city reinventing itself and makes me think about the ways I\u2019d been reinventing myself too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first time I\u2019d visited Colombia I\u2019d been seeking meaning, just as I continue to do on my travels today. But back then, I didn\u2019t yet have the words for it. On that first trip, meaning was to be found in bumpy bus rides to reach the unknown and in the thrill of doing something for the first time. We were chasing beauty and freedom, but beneath that was something deeper \u2013 a longing to understand the world and our place in it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Intrepid's<\/figure><\/div>
\"The<\/figure><\/div>
\"Flowers<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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A blossoming tradition in Santa Elena<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The next day we meet Nacho in Santa Elena, whose family has been part of the \u2018silletero\u2019 flower-carrying tradition for generations. The tradition began in the 19th century, when porters would carry people and their belongings on wooden chairs strapped to their backs, trekking long, gruelling distances through the Andean mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Over time, what began as physical labour evolved into an artform rooted in storytelling and cultural pride. Today, silleteros use that same body strength to carry elaborate floral displays during Medellin\u2019s Feria de las Flores.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Nacho walks us through his backyard, he shows us his family\u2019s winning silletas that have taken home top honours at the festival. Each one tells a story in their intricate wooden frames layered with lilies, carnations, sunflowers and chrysanthemums, arranged into shapes, words and symbols. I ask him what the tradition means to him. He says simply: \u2018This is who we are.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more: The relief of travelling phone-free in Colombia<\/a> <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\"Raising<\/figure><\/div>
\"The<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Full circle for reflection <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Our final stop brings us to Santa Marta \u2013 a fitting return for me to Caribbean coast and a place my friend and I visited all those years back. Santa Marta is one of those places that has an airport right next to the beach, so you can see everyone frolicking as you land and you know right away you\u2019re in the right place. The humidity hits me again the second I step off the plane, a familiar sensation that makes me feel right at home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Santa Marta is home to not only beach but also jungle in the form of Tayrona National Park, which our guide explains is \u2018the heartbeat of the world\u2019. The indigenous Kogi people who live here close the park a few times each year to spiritually cleanse it of the energy brought by hundreds of thousands of tourists.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It feels ceremonious to be back in Santa Marta again. I stand on the balcony of my room, looking out beyond the treetops, watching the waves break and feel a kind of peace I hadn\u2019t known I was yearning for.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019d returned to Colombia still craving adventure, but I was drawn to it differently this time. I noticed more. I lingered longer. I asked better questions. There was meaning in the stillness I\u2019d found \u2013 in the meals shared, the traditions passed down and the joy of returning to a place to realise it\u2019s changed \u2013 and so have you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Glynn Pogue travelled to Colombia on Intrepid\u2019s Best of Colombia<\/a> trip.<\/strong> For a chance to join the next BIPOC mentorship trip, keep an eye on Intrepid’s social channels. <\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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