{"id":56315,"date":"2025-07-28T09:30:00","date_gmt":"2025-07-27T23:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=56315"},"modified":"2025-12-04T14:04:53","modified_gmt":"2025-12-04T03:04:53","slug":"budj-bim-cultural-landscape-stories-in-stone","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/budj-bim-cultural-landscape-stories-in-stone\/","title":{"rendered":"Head over eels: Exploring Budj Bim Cultural Landscape with a First Nations guide"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Fabled for its ‘big head’ volcano and ancient eel-catching aquaculture system, Budj Bim in Victoria is one of Australia\u2019s most important heritage sites. Writer Kerry Van Der Jagt discovers its significance.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Long before the Egyptians diverted the Nile or the Romans constructed aqueducts, the Gunditjmara people of south-western Victoria<\/a> created a sophisticated hydrological engineering system designed to trap, store and harvest kooyang (short-finned eel).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dating back 6600 years, the elaborate series of modified water channels, weirs and ponds is considered one of the world\u2019s oldest and most extensive aquaculture systems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Eel-catching gnarraban baskets are made out of long smooth grass\u00a0leaves<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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‘Farming eels and trading the excess with other Nations enabled my people to develop a large, settled community,’ says Braydon Saunders, a local Gunditjmara guide who has been instrumental in the push to open Budj Bim to visitors. ‘Our eel and fish traps have re-written the history books, proving that our mob [the Aboriginal name given to family or community] were more than just hunter-gatherers leading a nomadic lifestyle.’<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, the stones are silent, but it takes little imagination to conjure a scene of men working the eel traps, adjusting stonework in line with the seasonal floods, while women wove elaborate fish nets and baskets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In recognition of the highly productive system, which provided an economic and social base for Gunditjmara society for six millennia, the Budj Bim Cultural Landscape<\/a> was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2019, the first Australian landscape to be included purely for its Indigenous cultural values.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since inscription, a lot of work by the Gunditjmara community has gone into developing the First Nations owned and operated Budj Bim Cultural Landscape Tourism experience<\/a>. Opened in 2022, visitors can join a variety of tours led by Gunditjmara guides taking in the eel traps and channels, remains of circular stone dwellings and smoking trees, where the eels were prepared for consumption or trade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The experience is located in and around Budj Bim National Park and Tae Rak (Lake Condah), beyond Victoria\u2019s picturesque Great Ocean Road<\/a>. ‘The infrastructure and raised boardwalks allow guests to get out among the fish-trap systems, to stand over the top of them,’ says Saunders. The site also includes the Tae Rak Aquaculture Centre, a bush tucker caf\u00e9, retail space and display tank.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more:\u00a0How travelling in my own country felt as inspiring as a trip overseas<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The boardwalk gives visitors a great view into the eel-catching system<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Visitors on a tight timeframe can enjoy a two-hour guided cultural walk of the Tae Rak aquaculture sites and wetlands, while those with a bit more time can take the half-day Tungatt Mirring (stone country) tour. The full-day Kooyang Yana tour includes the Kurtonitj Indigenous Protected Area, Lake Gorrie drystone walls and a guided walk of the Tae Rak wetlands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

‘Or you can just come and have a coffee or a cake, or a barramundi or smoked-eel platter for lunch. Our chefs do a great job of creating a story with the food,’ Saunders says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whichever tour you choose, this new tourism venture will take everything you thought you knew about Indigenous culture and blow it out of the (eel-filled) water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\n\n\n
Great Ocean Road & Grampians Adventure<\/a><\/div>
6 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Hike the Great Ocean Walk<\/a><\/div>
7 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Melbourne to Kangaroo Island Adventure<\/a><\/div>
11 days<\/span><\/div>
View trip<\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

‘Each time you come out you will learn a bit more, build on your experiences. Every visit will be different, as different things happen during different seasons. The menu at the caf\u00e9 will also change, depending on what’s seasonal,’ he explains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gunditjmara country is a hauntingly beautiful place, created by fire and brimstone some 37,000 years ago when the volcano Budj Bim (meaning \u2018high head\u2019) erupted, resulting in lava flows and the formation of lakes and waterways.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

‘Budj Bim had seen our people struggling to live a sustainable life. They had been living too much for themselves, and not enough for one another,’ says Saunders. ‘So he revealed himself and transformed the landscape by spewing blood (lava) and teeth (stones), forcing them to change their ways. It\u2019s a story as old as time, about looking out for each other and caring for one another.’<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The trapping system was as innovative as it was simple, using the natural springs and lakes created by the eruption to direct the eels into holding ponds. ‘It was then up to my people to create channels through the basalt, through which the eels could follow. It was designed so that they could come in, but not come out.’<\/p>\n\n\n\n

‘If you were to ask how we would do that, it\u2019s a very complicated process. Basically we used fire, because this stone is very porous and the fire would collapse the stone. So our mob used fire to create channels.’<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Read more:\u00a0How locals are rescuing the Daintree Rainforest<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Learning about First Nations culture offers an authentic way to explore<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Remains of eel traps can be seen in other locations across Australia and all over the world, but the unique characteristic of Budj Bim is that they were carved and crafted into the landscape, meaning the traps and ponds could be used and re-used for thousands of years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

‘It was about not making a massive change to the landscape,’ says Saunders. ‘But about making a change small enough that it worked in our favour, but did not have a negative impact on the environment.’<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taking care of Country and sharing stories with others lies at the heart of the Budj Bim Cultural Landscape Tourism. ‘My Country and my home \u2013 I\u2019m getting emotional thinking about it now \u2013 means everything to me,’ says Saunders. ‘It was a real whirlwind leading up to the opening, but the overpowering emotion is one of complete pride in what we\u2019ve been able to achieve, whether 6600 years ago, or in recent years with a World Heritage listing. A lot of pride.’<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Keen to visit Budj Bim? Check out our Great Ocean Road & <\/a>G<\/a>rampians Adventure<\/a> or visit Welcome to Country<\/a> <\/strong>to learn more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The writer is a descendant of the Awabakal people of the mid-north coast of New South Wales.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This article was brought to you in partnership with Welcome to Country<\/a><\/u>, a not-for-profit marketplace for Australian Indigenous experiences.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Fabled for its ‘big head’ volcano and ancient eel-catching aquaculture system, Budj Bim in Victoria is one of Australia\u2019s most important heritage sites. 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