{"id":38971,"date":"2020-01-15T08:30:00","date_gmt":"2020-01-14T21:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=38971&preview=true&preview_id=38971"},"modified":"2024-09-18T16:22:31","modified_gmt":"2024-09-18T06:22:31","slug":"why-we-no-longer-travel-to-sihanoukville","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/why-we-no-longer-travel-to-sihanoukville\/","title":{"rendered":"The demise of Sihanoukville: Why we no longer travel there"},"content":{"rendered":"

If you want to see the face of overtourism, take a plane to Phnom Penh and catch a bumpy five-hour bus to Sihanoukville \u2013\u00a0a once-sleepy town on a little peninsula in the Gulf of Thailand<\/a>. Sihanoukville is the jewel of Cambodia\u2019s tourism industry. Or at least it used to be.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

If you visited Sihanoukville five years ago, you might not recognise it today. The town has been swamped by foreign investment and tourism, mauled by construction. In fact, we\u2019ve just made the difficult decision to stop visiting Sihanoukville altogether. As of this year, it no longer appears on Intrepid\u2019s Cambodian itineraries<\/a>, which is a terrible shame on so many levels.<\/p>\n

\"A

Sihanoukville used to look like this. Photo by Zahra Saleki.<\/p><\/div>\n

For the vast majority of its history, nobody paid Sihanoukville much attention. The city doesn\u2019t have any proper waterways, so during the Angkor Empire, most trade ran out of O Keo in the Mekong Delta. Sihanoukville was just a little peninsula, sticking out into the Gulf of Thailand, surrounded by jungle-covered hills and a string of golden beaches. It was only after Cambodian independence in 1954 that the government decided to build a port here; the deep water and easy access made Sihanoukville the logical choice. And when the Khmer Rouge fell in 1979, Sihanoukville became one of Cambodia\u2019s economic success stories: a bustling trade town and fishing village, which slowly morphed into the country\u2019s favourite seaside resort.<\/p>\n

We started coming here back in 2007. At that time, Sihanoukville was still a blip on the average tourist\u2019s radar. Serendipity Beach drew a steady crowd of unshaven backpackers, and there were a few bungalows popping up near Otres Beach, but most tour buses still made a bee-line north from Phnom Penh, shuttling visitors back and forth to Siem Reap. Cambodia\u2019s coastline was kind of ignored, especially compared to Thailand\u2019s archipelago<\/a>, pulsing and flashing just across the Gulf. Sihanoukville was growing, but slowly. If people knew how good it was, they weren\u2019t telling anybody.<\/p>\n

\"A

Construction in Sihanoukville. Photo by diy13.<\/p><\/div>\n

Unfortunately this is the story of overtourism<\/a>, repeated like-for-like all over the world. The backdrop changes, but the plot is depressingly familiar. It starts with backpackers and bohemian, adventure types, then tour companies (like us) open up new routes and itineraries, making it easier and cheaper for travellers to visit. Local companies respond by investing in tourism infrastructure, building new hotels and resorts, and then there\u2019s a flash point \u2013 maybe the destination gets featured in a Top 10 list, or some Hollywood studio decides to shoot a movie there (see Thailand\u2019s Kho Phi Phi<\/a>) \u2013 and demand suddenly soars way, way above supply. Travellers swarm in unsustainable numbers, overwhelming the locals and triggering all sorts of unintended consequences (crime, pollution and environmental damage being the big three). It\u2019s happened in Croatia<\/a>, Thailand<\/a>, Venice<\/a>, Barcelona<\/a> and now (unfortunately) Sihanoukville<\/a>.<\/p>\n

RELATED: HOW TO CHOOSE A RESPONSIBLE TOUR OPERATOR<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Sihanoukville today is almost unrecognizable. More than 70 individual casinos<\/a> have been built here in the last three years alone. There are even plans underway for a new $1 billion, 65-hectare Chinese-Malaysian resort, Wisney World<\/a>, set to feature \u201cwater parks, hotels, casinos, malls, gardens and churches\u201d (according to the\u00a0Phnom Penh Post.<\/em>) Much of Ream National Park has been logged and cleared for development, and there\u2019s a four-lane highway being forged between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh. The town itself is now an almost-permanent construction zone. Bricks and construction materials litter the streets, the crime rate is growing<\/a>, and Sihanoukville\u2019s postcard beaches are now choked with plastic bags<\/a>. The economic gap between the city\u2019s rich and poor is widening<\/a> \u2013 fast.<\/p>\n

\"Litter-strewn

Rubbish litters the town. Photo by TheWalkingEye.<\/p><\/div>\n

The cruellest irony of overtourism is the direct correlation between beauty and suffering: if Sihanoukville had been slightly less perfect, its beaches less isolated and sun-kissed, its waters less photogenic, tourists might never have come here, and developers would have nothing to sell. As one of the tour companies that opened Sihanoukville to the world, we have to take some of the responsibility for its downfall. It\u2019s one of the reasons we\u2019re pushing so hard for a new kind of travel: \u2018undertourism<\/a>\u2019.<\/p>\n

This year we released our first ever Not Hot List<\/a> \u2013 a compilation of destinations that are on pretty much nobody\u2019s dream itinerary. But they should be. Out-of-the-way spots that have never even seen<\/em> a Starbucks espresso machine. We\u2019re trying to alleviate the negative effects of tourism while sharing and spreading its economic benefit \u2013 introducing travellers to new communities in a sustainable way.<\/p>\n

RELATED: A GUIDE TO BATTAMBANG, CAMBODIA’S MOST UNDERRATED CITY<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cWe must be cautious of the effect that travel has on the health and wellness of locals and of the destination,\u201d says Intrepid CEO James Thornton. \u201cAt Intrepid, we hold the traveller and the destination in equal respect, and believe one need not be sacrificed for the other.\u201d<\/p>\n

In Cambodia\u2019s case, that means saying goodbye to Sihanoukville (for now) and looking to smaller towns like Kampong Cham, Kampong Chhnang, Battambang and Kampot instead. You can check out our new itineraries here<\/a>.<\/p>\n

In amending our itineraries to no longer include Sihanoukville, we considered the impact this would have on local businesses, but Cambodian-owned businesses are now a rarity in Sihanoukville , as most hotels and restaurants are operated by foreign investors. We weighed this up against the experience our customers were expecting in Cambodia, and chose to include lesser-known towns throughout Cambodia\u2019s countryside instead.<\/p>\n

We hope the travel industry \u2013 us included \u2013 can learn from the mistakes of the past. We hope that Sihanoukville can recover and bounce back. It\u2019ll probably never be the sleepy town that it once was, but that doesn\u2019t mean it can\u2019t be great again. There\u2019s no reason that travel and sustainable, patient development can\u2019t go hand in hand. There\u2019s no reason travel can\u2019t enrich local communities, instead of overwhelming them. There\u2019s no reason it can\u2019t start right now.<\/p>\n

Explore our full range of small group adventures in Cambodia now<\/a>.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Feature photo by Stephen Parry.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you want to see the face of overtourism, take a plane to Phnom Penh and catch a bumpy five-hour bus to Sihanoukville \u2013\u00a0a once-sleepy town on a little peninsula in the Gulf of Thailand. Sihanoukville is the jewel of Cambodia\u2019s tourism industry. Or at least it used to be.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15098,"featured_media":39005,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[47],"tags":[180,43,385],"class_list":["post-38971","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-responsible-travel","tag-asia","tag-cambodia","tag-south-east-asia","ipf_region-cambodia"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWhy We No Longer Travel To Sihanoukville | Intrepid Travel Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"If you want to see the face of overtourism, go to Sihanoukville. 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