{"id":37712,"date":"2019-09-04T08:30:00","date_gmt":"2019-09-03T22:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=37712&preview=true&preview_id=37712"},"modified":"2025-03-06T21:09:20","modified_gmt":"2025-03-06T10:09:20","slug":"vegetarian-guide-to-mongolia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/vegetarian-guide-to-mongolia\/","title":{"rendered":"Vegetarian? Here’s how to travel in Mongolia (without going hungry)"},"content":{"rendered":"

With its nomadic culture and extreme climate, it’s no surprise that the diets of most Mongolians are made up almost exclusively of dried meat. Here\u2019s how I survived a two-week solo trip around Mongolia<\/a> as a vegetarian and how you can too.<\/strong><\/p>\n

After seven hours of driving through the Gobi Desert without seeing a living thing (except for tiny cashmere goats), we have finally arrived at our host family\u2019s ger (yurt). It\u2019s everything I hoped it would be: children riding horses bareback in the distance, a wood-burning stove belching smoke through a hole in the roof, simple wooden furniture painted with colourful swirls that symbolise clouds.<\/p>\n

However, when our host mother reaches under the bed and pulls out the dried leg of a camel, my stomach drops. She proceeds to hack off a section of the grizzled meat and grind it into strong-smelling powder, before tipping it into a saucepan filled with bobbing bones. Dinner time.<\/p>\n

CHECK OUT OUR FULL RANGE OF (VEGETARIAN-FRIENDLY) MONGOLIA ADVENTURES HERE<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"A

Roadtripping. Photo by Mikey Sadowski.<\/p><\/div>\n

Mongolia is, without doubt, the hardest place I have ever travelled as a vegetarian. To be honest it\u2019s pretty out there for meat-eaters too. With sheep eyeballs and barbecued marmot \u2013 both traditional dishes\u00a0\u2013 even carnivores may find themselves opting to join the veggie train.<\/p>\n

Here are my top tips for coming back from Mongolia with your ethics (and stomach) intact.<\/p>\n

The key phrase that’ll save your bacon<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"Yurts

On the Steppe. Photo by Mikey Sadowski.<\/p><\/div>\n

Mongolia is home to the last truly nomadic population on earth. At least three times a year, herder families pack up their gers, round up their horses and move to new pastures to escape the harsh weather. But even if they stayed in one place, the scorching Gobi Desert is no place to farm crops, so it\u2019s unsurprising that vegetarianism is considered a little eccentric among nomads.<\/p>\n

However, they will be more than happy to accommodate your dietary needs if you can communicate them successfully. It’s one of the benefits of travelling with a company like Intrepid; they can cater to dietary requirements in places like Mongolia, so no one goes hungry. I travelled on my own, and it was definitely challenging at times.<\/p>\n

Many country folk are not literate, but it’s worth asking a hotel worker in the city to write down a few key phrases for you before you venture out onto the steppe, just in case. Other than that, you\u2019ll have to rely on fledgling Mongolian to get by.<\/p>\n

Repeat after me:\u00a0Bi makh, takhia iddegg\u00fci.<\/strong>\u00a0I don\u2019t eat meat or chicken. For some reason many Mongolian\u2019s don\u2019t count chicken as meat.<\/p>\n

RELATED: A VEGETARIAN’S GUIDE TO BEIJING<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Veggie dishes to look out for<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"Traditional

Baursak, fresh from the deep fryer. Photo by Belovodchenko Anton.<\/p><\/div>\n

Mongolians love their meat. A backpacker I met shakily described their host family slaughtering a goat in front of them, in honour of their arrival. But it’s a myth that no Mongolian dishes are suitable for those of us who prefer their goats alive. In fact, as of\u00a0 2010\u2019s National Census, about 53% of the country is Tibetan Buddhist, a religion that bans eating animals.<\/p>\n

JOIN US ON A 15-DAY ADVENTURE THROUGH WILD MONGOLIA\u00a0\u2013 FULL DETAILS HERE<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

A few popular dishes to look out for:<\/p>\n

1. Khuushuur<\/strong>
\nEssentially the Mongolian version of a Cornish pasty, these pastries can be made with just potatoes, cabbage and carrots. Be sure to remember to ask for yours \u2018with no meat or chicken\u2019.<\/p>\n

2. Baursak<\/strong>
\nBite-sized pieces of fried bread, which are often offered to guests when they arrive. They may not be the most flavoursome things in the world, but they\u2019re inoffensive and fairly tasty when dipped in tea.<\/p>\n

\"Newsletter<\/a>3. Buuz<\/strong>
\nThese steamed dumplings are traditionally filled with mutton, but you can request tofu and mushroom versions instead. They’re pretty delicious.<\/p>\n

4. Tsuivan<\/strong>
\nEssentially a noodle stir-fry with potatoes, onions and carrots. Again, you\u2019ll need to request yours meat free.<\/p>\n

5. Budaatai huurga<\/strong>
\nThis is very similar to tsuivan, except the base is rice rather than noodles.<\/p>\n

Veggie restaurants in Ulaanbaatar<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"Ulaanbaatar

Stock up on supplies in Ulaanbaatar. Photo by toiletroom.<\/p><\/div>\n

Mongolia\u2019s capital is growing fast, with thousands of herders opting to move to the city each year, as climate change makes pursuing their traditional lifestyle more and more difficult. The result is a vibrant, exciting atmosphere with new restaurants and cafes springing up like mushrooms, including a wide selection of vegetarian restaurants, where local hipsters gather to sip sea buckthorn juice and have a gossip. Here are some of my favourites:<\/p>\n

Luna Blanca<\/a> was the first vegan restaurant in the country. Today, it specialises in healthy European Asian fusion food, such as miso soup, fresh tofu stir fries and borscht (Russian beetroot and cabbage soup).<\/p>\n

Loving Hut<\/a> has three outposts throughout Ulaanbaatar, each managed by a local family, giving them a warm, independent feel. The cream soups are all as comforting as a hot bath on a cold night (of which there are plenty in Mongolia); they also have a great range of fresh smoothies.<\/p>\n

Bosco Verde Vegan Restaurant<\/a>\u00a0serves Italian-style coffee and vegan food in a casual, trattoria<\/em>-style setting that\u2019s popular with expats. The thin-crust pizzas are particularly good.<\/p>\n

PREFER YOUR ADVENTURES MEAT FREE? CHECK OUT OUR VEGAN FOOD ADVENTURES NOW<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Shopping for the steppe<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"Dried

Aaruul, a type of dried cheese. Photo by Dmitry Naumov.<\/p><\/div>\n

The dizzying glow of the milky way. The silhouettes of camels trotting home at sunset. Mongolian cowboys cracking their whips as they round up their horses. Strange moonscapes made of flaming red sand, and vast chasms filled with ice. There are many things you\u2019ll remember from your time in Mongolia\u2019s wilderness, but a gourmet experience won\u2019t be one of them.<\/p>\n

You\u2019ll be eating to live rather than living to eat, but stocking up on a few key supplies in Ulaanbaatar will make the experience far more enjoyable.<\/p>\n

Here are a few things you might want to consider taking with you (they can be tricky to get hold of outside the city):<\/p>\n