{"id":37353,"date":"2019-07-22T22:07:55","date_gmt":"2019-07-22T12:07:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=37353"},"modified":"2025-03-04T03:53:34","modified_gmt":"2025-03-03T16:53:34","slug":"coober-pedy-australia-profile","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/coober-pedy-australia-profile\/","title":{"rendered":"Inside Coober Pedy, Australia\u2019s most unusual yet welcoming town"},"content":{"rendered":"

My first day in Coober Pedy, I met Jimmy the Runner.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sat on a barstool at the pub, he was lithe, with a tanned, lined face from decades in the sun. Jimmy told me he arrived from Athens as a young man the early 1960s. A time when many Europeans were flocking to this town to make their fortune in opal mining. Men like my father, who lived here for almost 10 years, seeking his fortune. It\u2019s said Coober Pedy<\/a> <\/strong>is the type of place where you can come with just the shirt on your back and leave a millionaire. I wanted to visit for myself, to understand why my dad loved this life so much.<\/p>\n

Jimmy the Runner tells me he spent his first two years living in a tent on an arid opal field. When he first arrived, there were only half a dozen women living in Coober Pedy. A time when you could buy gelignite by the box at the general store.<\/p>\n

\u201cI only came for a visit, and I forgot to leave,\u201d he chuckled. \u00a0I\u2019d been told Jimmy the Runner earned his nickname from running marathons along the dusty, red roads. He\u2019s exactly the kind of character you\u2019d expect to find in Coober Pedy.<\/p>\n

North of Adelaide, Coober Pedy is set on the edge of the Simpson Desert. The aboriginal name for this land is Kupa<\/em> Piti<\/em>, meaning \u201cwhite man in a hole.\u201d For thousands of years Aboriginal people walked the land as hunters and gatherers. Then in 1915, 14-year-old Willie Hutchinson found opal. Over 100 years later, Coober Pedy is still the kind of town people come to in the hopes of seeking their fortune.<\/p>\n

BROWSE ALL OF INTREPID’S SMALL GROUP TOURS IN AUSTRALIA<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Coober<\/a>

Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, Coober Pedy<\/p><\/div>\n

Around 3,500 people live in Coober Pedy \u2013 although no one knows for sure. After all, it\u2019s the type of place people come to for a \u201cfresh start.\u201d But this tiny town is surprisingly cosmopolitan. Earlier, I\u2019d met Ned who arrived in Coober Pedy to mine opals from the former Yugoslavia.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s 48 different nationalities living here now,\u201d he tells me. My server at the hotel is from Sri Lanka, and she tells me she\u2019s getting experience in the tourism industry. The town still has a thriving Italian Club, Croatian Club and Greek Club \u2013 which puts on a barbecue each Friday night and is open to anyone.<\/p>\n

Here, it doesn\u2019t take long to feel like a local.<\/p>\n

READ MORE: THE ULTIMATE PACKING GUIDE FOR AUSTRALIA<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Stopping for a cold drink at Waffles and Gems caf\u00e9, I got chatting to my server Roz, and the owner Jimmy, a Scotsman from Edinburgh with an accent as thick as treacle. Jimmy mined opal for four decades until carpal tunnel prevented him for holding a pick underground. The caf\u00e9 sells gems and serves up delicious waffles, prepared by Jimmy\u2019s German-born wife. Roz invited me to watch the sunrise with them at 5:30am the next morning.<\/p>\n

\"Coober<\/a>

Coober Pedy\u2019s locals will soon have you feeling at home<\/p><\/div>\n

The promise of coffee was enough to lure me out of bed. The next morning, I rose early to watch the sky turn as pink as candy floss, as the sun slowly rose over the large Coober Pedy sign (like the Hollywood sign), sipping coffee. Roz tells me she first came to Coober Pedy in the 1970s.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt was full of bulldust holes back then,\u201d she said. Roz lives out at the old Eight Mile opal field, along with a handful of other people. There\u2019s no running water, no electricity. But something tells me she likes it that way.<\/p>\n

READ MORE: HOW TO SEE AUSTRALIA ON A BUDGET<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Roz and Jimmy had plenty of stories about the town, and some of its most colourful characters \u2013 like Crocodile Harry. Christened Arvid Blumenthal, rumour is the Latvian-born miner was royalty.<\/p>\n

\u201cCrocodile Harry was a gentleman, unless he was drunk,\u201d said Jimmy. \u201cAnd he was always drunk.\u201d Crocodile Harry\u2019s dugout is open to tourists and made an appearance in Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome<\/em>.<\/p>\n

I discovered Coober Pedy has plenty to keep adventurous travellers busy.<\/p>\n

Seek your fortune <\/strong><\/h3>\n

Wannabe opal miners can still obtain a land permit and sink a hole deep into the earth. If that sounds too much like hard work (word is: it is), try noodling instead. Noodling\u2014essentially fossicking\u2014is \u00a0permittable in public areas. It helps to have a small shovel and sieve, as well as clothes you don\u2019t mind getting dirty.<\/p>\n

\"Coober<\/a>

Noodling for opals in Coober Pedy<\/p><\/div>\n

I went to the public noodling area on Jewellers Shop Road, on the edge of town, to see if I inherited my dad\u2019s talent for finding opals. There\u2019s something meditative about sifting through piles of excavated earth (known colloquially as \u201cmullock heaps\u201d). Training my eyes to spot a sign of colour: blue, red, green or orange, my Blunstones developed a layer of red dust as I sifted the earth.<\/p>\n

Half an hour later, my effort paid off. I spied a small rock, rusty red in colour, one side the palest blue, like a newborn\u2019s eyes. Opal! If you\u2019re lucky enough to find pieces of opal while noodling, they\u2019re yours to keep.<\/p>\n

SUBSCRIBE TO INTREPID’S NEWSLETTER FOR TRAVEL TIPS, DESTINATION INSPIRATION, GIVEAWAYS & MORE<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Worship underground<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"Coober<\/a>

Underground Serbian church<\/p><\/div>\n

One of the most unusual\u2014and stunning\u2014things to see in Coober Pedy is the underground Serbian Orthodox Church, built the by the Serbian community in the 1990s. Dedicated to Saint Elijah, the large sandstone church is fitted with stained glass windows at the alter. Because it\u2019s underground, the windows are backlit.<\/p>\n

READ MORE: WHAT TO EXPECT ON AN AUSTRALIAN OVERLAND ADVENTURE<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Boots and all <\/strong><\/h3>\n

You\u2019ll know your close to the town\u2019s cemetery when you stumble across a white post with an old black boot affixed on top with a sign \u201cHill Cemetery.\u201d According to the legend, the cemetery was named after all the people who worked so hard opal mining, they\u2019d die \u2013 and were buried \u2013 with their boots on. Coober Pedy isn\u2019t without a sense of humour. Look for the grave of Karl Bratz, which features a 19-gallon beer keg and the sign \u201chave a drink on me.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Coober<\/a>

Boot Hill Cemetery<\/p><\/div>\n

Learn about the history of opal mining <\/strong><\/h3>\n

Ned tells me there it\u2019s estimated there are two million holes in and around Coober Pedy; opal mines are not backfilled. The threat of falling into an open mine is very real and it\u2019s prohibited to trespass onto many mining areas. But the Umoona Opal Mine you can experience a former working mine, learn about opal formation and the history of the area.<\/p>\n

READ MORE: THE BEST TIME TO VISIT AUSTRALIA<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

An underground mansion <\/strong><\/h3>\n

If you don\u2019t get a chance to stay in a dugout, the next best thing is touring Fay\u2019s Underground Home. Faye Nayler arrived in the 1960s and was instrumental in welcoming tourists to Coober Pedy. With the help of two friends, Faye spent the next ten years hand digging the three-bedroom dugout. Firmly entrenched in the \u201860s and \u201870s, the flowery dugout boasts a wine cellar, bar and indoor swimming pool. The tour will give you insight into the type of people who helped made Coober Pedy the town it is.<\/p>\n

Tempted to visit this unique destination? You can on Intrepid’s 7-day Adelaide to Alice Springs Overland trip.<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

—<\/p>\n

(Image credits, from top to bottom: Intrepid Travel, South Australian Tourism Commission, Amanda Lee x2, South Australian Tourism Commission, Amanda Lee.)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Around 3,500 people live in Coober Pedy \u2013 although no one knows for sure. 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