{"id":34882,"date":"2022-05-20T01:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-05-19T15:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=34882"},"modified":"2025-03-25T01:49:15","modified_gmt":"2025-03-24T14:49:15","slug":"visiting-amman-jordan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/visiting-amman-jordan\/","title":{"rendered":"From hummus to hospitality: What to know about visiting Amman, Jordan"},"content":{"rendered":"

When my husband and I began planning a trekking trip to Jordan<\/a> with Intrepid Travel, I gleefully jumped down Instagram rabbit holes in search of my favorite activities\/rewards for off-trail days: #art and <\/strong>#architecture.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Images from Jordan\u2019s capital city Amman were flat-out astounding. Excitedly, I reached out to fellow travellers for Amman-centric recommendations and, once again, astonishment set in: it seems most view the metropolis as \u2018gateway to elsewhere\u2019 \u2013 Petra, Wadi Rum, Dana Preserve \u2013 yet underestimate the value of the city itself.<\/p>\n

\u201cGet in, get out,\u201d is what one globe-trekker advised. Others proclaimed, \u201cTraffic in Amman is horrendous.\u201d \u201cThe city is a sprawling and chaotic.\u201d \u201cAmman is burly.\u201d<\/p>\n

I don\u2019t know about you, but for me, all these sureties serve as inspiration to dig in and decide for myself about this city, which four million Jordanians call home. What I soon discovered is\u2026traffic and street life in Amman is<\/em> chaotic, the city is<\/em> sprawling and can be burly, but this is merely its outer skin. Layers upon layers, those of ancient empires and civilizations, nomadic desert tribes and multi-ethnic refugee populations have built on each other, fusing and creating this complex metropolis.<\/p>\n

\"visiting<\/a>

Downtown Amman<\/p><\/div>\n

To experience Amman in full, Intrepid <\/a><\/strong>leads travellers to a base in downtown, the city\u2019s oldest area. Here, you will feel the city\u2019s beating heart, get lost in the streets, sample local eats while chatting up food cart vendors, bargain for dried fruits in the souks, spend an afternoon caf\u00e9 hopping and breath in the ancient glories and modern rhythms. Don\u2019t worry about wandering too far afield, yellow taxis are metered, cheap and omnipresent, and white shared taxis, known as serveeces, can be the ticket for hopping between prime areas.<\/p>\n

If you revel in the unexpected, you\u2019ll soon discover that Amman is indeed a gateway \u2013 but, not merely to places like Petra<\/a> <\/strong>and Wadi Rum<\/a><\/strong>. Immersion into Amman provides a peek into the very core of Jordan<\/strong><\/a>\u2019s past, present and future.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s how Amman will surprise you \u2013 at times, even, mesmerize you. (And, isn\u2019t that what keeps us travelling?)<\/p>\n

Caf\u00e9 culture is abuzz<\/h3>\n

As discombobulation will likely be your mind and body\u2019s status on day one, let the city\u2019s favorite pastime \u2013 lingering over a cup of thick and foamy cardamom-tinged Arabic coffee (the taste grows on you) \u2013 jolt your jet-lag. To say there\u2019s a caf\u00e9 on every corner would be an understatement. Everyone has their favorite and choices run the gamut from smoky, male-dominated traditional haunts to ultra-modern art gallery hybrids. For eye-popping views, head to aptly-named Old View Caf\u00e9 near trendy Rainbow Street.<\/p>\n

\"visiting<\/a>

Colorful Amman<\/p><\/div>\n

Great civilizations are always in sight<\/h3>\n

A pillar of the Greek Decapolis, this area was named Philadelphia <\/em>and famed as a trading nexus. The strategic location ensured mighty empires to come, from Byzantines to Umayyads, would leave their mark. The fascinating Citadel Hill, known locally as Jabal Al Qal\u2019a<\/em>, perches high above the city and boasts well-preserved Roman and Islamic ruins.<\/p>\n

Walking the site feels like being on a movie set, as columns from a 2nd century temple dedicated to Hercules rest in harmony near a stunning Arabic palace (constructed over 600 years later). If that wasn\u2019t enough, these treasures overlook a 6,000-seat Roman theatre, with the entire expanse of Amman just beyond. The scope and views are breathtaking.<\/p>\n

Employ a licensed guide at the front gate (sporting Minister of Tourism badges) for a walking education in the site\u2019s history and meaning. Morning and sunset are ideal times to visit. Amman heats up quickly, so avoid sweltering midday sun.<\/p>\n

\"visiting<\/a>

The view from the citadel<\/p><\/div>\n

Escape afternoon heat with a visit to the impressive Jordan Museum. Ancient wonders are housed within a strikingly-modern building, designed by Jordanian architect Jafar Touqan. You\u2019ll never think of the term \u201cbuilt to last\u201d the same again after seeing the world\u2019s oldest human statues \u2013 these beauties are 9,500 years old! \u2013 discovered near present day Amman.<\/p>\n

VIEW ALL OF INTREPID’S SMALL GROUP TOURS IN JORDAN<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Regional flavors mix and mingle<\/h3>\n

In the late nineteenth century, Circassian Muslims fleeing Russia brought the first modern wave of refugees to the country. Since then, Jordan has continued to welcome communities displaced by war and persecution, particularly Iraqis, Palestinians and Syrians into Amman\u2019s swelling population.<\/p>\n

For visitors, the diversity offers the opportunity to sample regional cultures, art and food. Taste a traditional Armenian roast beef at Levant Restaurant, see the work of acclaimed Iraqi modern artist Dia Azzawi at Dar Al-Anda gallery, and catch a documentary about the Syrian experience at Rainbow Art House Theatre.<\/p>\n

\"visiting<\/a>

Spices in Amman<\/p><\/div>\n

Hospitality runs deep<\/h3>\n

From shopkeepers to strangers on the street, Jordanians are renowned for welcoming visitors with open arms. Initial greetings usually move quickly to what seems to be every local\u2019s favorite topic: food. Have you tried our national dish of lamb called mansaf? May I recommend a restaurant? <\/em><\/p>\n

An immense sense of hospitality is woven into local culture and food is revered as a gift best when shared. Never pass up recommendations, recipes or dinner invitations \u2013 which happen more often than you might think.<\/p>\n

Plan your own cooking and tasting session at Beit Sitti<\/a>, a school and dining experience run by three Jordanian sisters. Translated as \u201cgrandmother\u2019s house,\u201d this family home is an ideal setting for learning about traditional dishes and sharing the results over dinner on the terrace, a belly and soul-filling experience.<\/p>\n

\"visiting<\/a>

The cooking class<\/p><\/div>\n

And, don\u2019t even think about leaving Amman without visiting Hashem. Under shade canopies, this bustling 24-hour institution has served small plates of falafel, hummus and pita bread for nearly 100 years. This is a fast food feast, Ammani-style.<\/p>\n

Contemporary art and architecture are in bloom<\/h3>\n

Walking underneath the billowing domes of Queen Alia International Airport upon arrival is a cue to architectural surprises to come. One of the most accessible spaces comes from acclaimed Jordanian architect Ammar Khammash. Wild Jordan Center features a beautiful caf\u00e9 and terrace with expansive city views, making an ideal spot for healthy, locally-sourced eats. There is also a farmers\u2019 market on Fridays and locally-crafted art and jewelry.<\/p>\n

The same neighborhood, around leafy Rainbow Street, is an art lover\u2019s dream. You can walk from one contemporary art space to another in minutes. Nabad Gallery and Wadi Finan Gallery are equally impressive for the range of emerging and established artists as for the sublime setting, while cozy Salam Kanaan Gallery serves art alongside coffee, tea and pastries.<\/p>\n

A short taxi ride brings you to a series of 1920s villas hosting Darat Al Funun (House of Arts), one of the city\u2019s most beloved art spaces which also boosts a serene caf\u00e9 (Khammash also designed these new gallery spaces).<\/p>\n

Keep your eyes open for colorful murals throughout the city. Many are compliments of arts trailblazer, the annual Baladk Street Art Festival.<\/p>\n

Surprises come in small, sweet packages<\/h3>\n

Jordanians are legendary for having a raging sweet tooth and one of the tastiest treats combines savory, sweet, crunchy and gooey into one delicious bite. Head to Habibah Sweet Shop, an institution since 1951, to sample kanafeh, a cheese pastry covered in pistachios and syrup. The sign is in Arabic only, so look for the shop\u2019s blue and white logo.<\/p>\n

\"visiting<\/a>

Kanafeh<\/p><\/div>\n

A hot, dry afternoon calls for scoops of pistachio ice cream and local chain Gerard\u2019s is happy to oblige. There\u2019s a popular location on Rainbow Street as well as by the Royal Automobile Museum, where you can combine this sweet indulgence with a viewing of rides fit for kings and queens.<\/p>\n

Beer culture is brewing<\/h3>\n

Though, we weren\u2019t expecting to find local craft brews in Amman, after hot, steamy days, this particular surprise was welcome! Grab an Uber or Careem (now owned by Uber), to the city\u2019s outskirts for a tour and tasting at the country\u2019s first micro-brewery, Carakale.<\/p>\n

Ready to experience the wonders of Amman and the rest of Jordan for yourself? Check out Intrepid’s small group adventures there.<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

—<\/p>\n

(All images courtesy of writer Jess Simpson. All images taken on Intrepid’s Hiking in Jordan: Petra and Wadi Rum<\/a> trip.)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Amman is not merely a gateway to Petra and Wadi Rum. 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