{"id":32387,"date":"2019-01-24T01:00:22","date_gmt":"2019-01-23T14:00:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=32387"},"modified":"2025-03-17T22:56:46","modified_gmt":"2025-03-17T11:56:46","slug":"matsuyama-ehime-japan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/matsuyama-ehime-japan\/","title":{"rendered":"What a trip to Matsuyama taught me about Japanese hospitality"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sitting on the train that would soon be arriving in Matsuyama, I felt an unexpected tap on my shoulder. I turned to my side to see an outstretched hand gesturing for me to take its contents.<\/strong><\/p>\n

It was a bright orange, perfectly rounded mikan<\/em> (mandarin), a present from a stranger wanting to welcome me to their city.<\/p>\n

This was my first of many mikan on my trip to Ehime, one of Japan<\/a><\/strong>\u2019s least-discovered but most endearing prefectures, where locals never seem to be actively buying mikan, but always have a steady supply tucked away in a bag or jacket lining. \u00a0You\u2019ll find mandarin juice \u201con tap\u201d at local souvenir stores and the airport, unexpected orange pieces in your sushi and, yes, strangers imparting the fruit as a gesture of hospitality.<\/p>\n

While mikan is certainly one of Ehime\u2019s most renowned symbols, local residents will be quick to correct the assumption that Ehime\u2019s fruit m\u00e9lange<\/em> is limited only to the Satsuma mikan, their most famous commodity. \u201cWe are the citrus<\/em> state,\u201d they\u2019ll say, from oranges to lemons, sweet to sour, and citrus fruits you\u2019ve never heard of in between.<\/p>\n

\"Ehime

Some of the many citrus products available in Ehime Prefecture<\/p><\/div>\n

Ehime is the kind of place that generates nostalgia for simpler times \u2013 when people spoke to their neighbours, social interaction was a chat with whomever you were seated next to, and exchanging foodstuffs was all part of community living.<\/p>\n

Ehime\u2019s capital city of Matsuyama exudes a yesteryear charm that is hard to miss, with its old-style trams trundling along the high street, and its traditional structures that retain a prominence in everyday local life, rather than simply acting as non-functioning remnants of past times.<\/p>\n

People have been drawn to Matsuyama for centuries, starting with the founding of the city\u2019s Dogo Onsen some three thousand years ago. What legends say began with a white crane putting its injured leg into the hot spring waters and subsequently being cured, now sees hundreds of people coming to bathe in its healing waters daily.<\/p>\n

VISIT MATSUYAMA ON INTREPID’S 12-DAY SOUTHERN JAPAN EXPERIENCE TRIP<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Ehime

Dogo Onsen Main Building<\/p><\/div>\n

The main building\u2019s impressive wooden fa\u00e7ade along with the interior\u2019s narrow corridors, creaking floorboards and steep staircases, and the constant pitter-patter of visitors shuffling down the halls barefoot in yukata<\/em> robes, instantly transports you to another world. If you feel like you\u2019re stepped into an anime, it\u2019s because you have entered the inspiration for one. It was in fact this very building that moulded Hayao Miyazaki\u2019s acclaimed Studio Ghibli production \u2018Spirited Away\u2019.<\/p>\n

Overlooking the city is Matsuyama Castle. Elegantly poised atop a hill, it stands as one of only twelve castles in the country, out of more than three hundred, that retains its original keep.<\/p>\n

SUBSCRIBE TO INTREPID’S NEWSLETTER FOR DEALS, GIVEAWAYS, TRAVEL TIPS AND STORIES<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Ehime

Matsuyama Castle, completed in 1627<\/p><\/div>\n

Interestingly, no one ever lived there and it was built as a last line of defense in battle. In a way it still feels like the city could rush there in a time of crisis and find safety in its elaborate and savvy design, clever and strong even by today\u2019s standards.<\/p>\n

The chairlift to the castle grounds brings far more joy than you\u2019d imagine. Seated in single plastic classroom-esque chairs, with legs dangling below, it\u2019s quite the thrilling ride. Moving past others going in the opposite direction just creates another opportunity for smiles to be exchanged and a few more eager locals to excitedly wave and say \u201cWelcome to Japan\u201d to visitors.<\/p>\n

READ MORE: 6 (OTHER) UNDERRATED SPOTS YOU SHOULD VISIT IN JAPAN<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Ehime

The chairlift to Matsuyama Castle<\/p><\/div>\n

Over at JR Matsuyama train station, an older woman off to go shopping for the day hears English and excitedly turns around on her platform seat to chat. A few sentences in it was clear her English vocabulary was limited, but said she was trying to learn so she could talk to new foreign residents living in her community and to prove a point to her granddaughter that if her 76-year-old granny can learn, she should quit complaining about having to study it at school!<\/p>\n

On weekends and holidays, a special dining and sightseeing train known as the Iyonada Monogatari chugs along at a leisurely pace up and down a section of Ehime\u2019s northern coastline, allowing passengers to have a meal or a coffee while being captivated by the calming azure-hued sea views.<\/p>\n

READ MORE: WHAT IT’S LIKE TRAVELLING JAPAN SOLO<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Ehime

Staff serve breakfast on the Iyonada Monogatari<\/p><\/div>\n

The train emanates distinct Meiji era vibes \u2013 old-timey Western design with some Japanese twists. The Iyonada Monogatari takes you back to a period when train travel was an event and an occasion for dressing in your finest. The staff are also sure to complete this time portal with vintage uniforms adorned with mustard aprons and silk scarves.<\/p>\n

As the train moved through small coastal villages, locals had assembled along the roadside, on train platforms and baseball fields especially for the enjoyment of passengers. Villagers of all ages were waving, holding up signs and flowers, and some were even dressed in costume. A source of pride for the local community, apparently this is a kind, welcoming gesture that happens every time the Iyonada Monogatari passes by.<\/p>\n

CHECK OUT ALL OF INTREPID TRAVEL’S SMALL GROUP TOURS IN JAPAN<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Ehime

Locals greet passengers as the train passes through one of the stations on the Iyonada Monogatari sightseeing route<\/p><\/div>\n

At one point, there\u2019s a brief stop for photos at Shimonada Station, the second closest train station to the sea in Japan.<\/p>\n

Local residents who had come to greet the train noticed me instantly and came running over, asking me where I\u2019m from and welcoming me to their part of Japan, while offering their picture-taking assistance and, of course, a mikan.<\/p>\n

READ MORE: WHY TRAIN TRAVEL IS AN EXPERIENCE YOU CAN’T MISS IN JAPAN<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Ehime

Shimonada Station, a station by the sea<\/p><\/div>\n

Back at Matsuyama Station, the older woman I had spoken to earlier was coincidentally also returning at the same time. She eagerly smiled and waved, and declared, \u201cI\u2019m back!\u201d before enquiring about my day as if we were old friends.<\/p>\n

Perhaps that\u2019s the part of a trip to Matsuyama that sticks with you most. Alongside the city\u2019s glorious castle and incredible hot springs, you feel part of the community\u2019s intricately woven fabric right away. You sit and chat, and return to a period when making time for human interaction really was as simple as turning to the person next to you. And each mikan that results becomes a beautiful reminder about just how warm this world can truly be.<\/p>\n

Ready to visit gorgeous\u00a0Matsuyama for yourself? Spend time getting to know it on Intrepid’s Southern Japan Experience<\/a> or Ultimate Japan trip<\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>\n

—<\/p>\n

(All images courtesy of Jessica Korteman.)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Perhaps that\u2019s the part of a trip to Matsuyama that sticks with you most. 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