{"id":23266,"date":"2017-11-08T08:20:42","date_gmt":"2017-11-07T21:20:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=23266"},"modified":"2025-03-18T21:27:37","modified_gmt":"2025-03-18T10:27:37","slug":"northern-sri-lanka","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/","title":{"rendered":"Why Northern Sri Lanka should be on your travel radar"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sitting at Anuradhapura Railway Station just after sunrise, I thumb through the few pages in my guidebook devoted to Sri Lanka\u2019s least-visited region one more time. I have almost no expectations for Jaffna, despite having researched this trip for nearly a year.<\/strong><\/p>\n

I know it will be different from the rest of Sri Lanka<\/a><\/strong>, but I\u2019m not entirely sure how. I expect it to be hot, and I expect there to be some remnants of the decades-long civil war that ravaged the city, its residents, and the north in general.<\/p>\n

There has been precious little written about Jaffna and the north of Sri Lanka compared to the rest of the island. Until recently, this was not a stop on any western tourist\u2019s itinerary, and unlike the well-trodden southern surfer trail, I don\u2019t anticipate hordes of backpackers cramming into endless juice shops and souvenir stands.<\/p>\n

But what do I actually know? Next to nothing. And it’s a marvelously adventurous feeling.<\/p>\n

First impressions<\/h2>\n

Most foreign visitors to the north of Sri Lanka arrive by train, now that the new railway line connects Jaffna to Colombo and the cultural triangle.<\/p>\n

\"Northern

Scenes from the train to Jaffna<\/p><\/div>\n

I\u2019ve booked a first class ticket (for a whopping 500 rupees or $3.25 USD) as I was used to the standing-room-only trains of the south, but I needn\u2019t have worried. Only four other travelers board the train with me and I have an entire car to myself. The solitude of the empty train is enhanced by the barren landscape as we chug north through the Vanni, the vast expanse of hazy white salt flats that call to mind an alien landscape.<\/p>\n

READ MORE:\u00a05 EXPERIENCES THAT PROVE SRI LANKA IS AN ADVENTURER\u2019S PARADISE<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

If you dropped me in the middle of Jaffna without telling me where I was, my first guess might be North Africa. Maybe Algiers. The small skyline is dotted with spires and onion domes, the salty sea air is hot with spices and the unrelenting sun. I would never guess Sri Lanka. Although I\u2019ve been on the island for over two months already, Jaffna looks nothing at all like my beloved Ceylon. Even the language on the street signs has changed, to angular Tamil from the curvy flowers of Sinhalese.<\/p>\n

\"Jaffna

Typical afternoon traffic at the Jaffna market<\/p><\/div>\n

Arriving at my hotel by tuktuk, I\u2019m greeted by an impeccably dressed young man in a black and gold silk suit and matching turban. He takes my bag and opens the lobby door in one swift movement. Two sari-clad women glide forward to usher me into a plush armchair while another brings me a cool glass of tart wood apple juice and a chilled face towel. An ornate brass tray is placed in front of me and the ladies recite a Hindu blessing as one of them dabs a bit of fragrant tilaka paste on my forehead. This sandalwood-scented paste is a traditional Hindu sign of welcome for an honored guest.<\/p>\n

This is the perfect introduction to what was once one of the most sophisticated and refined places in all of Sri Lanka. After spending a week exploring Jaffna, witnessing the dignity and determination with which its citizens are rebuilding their lives and communities, I feel confident in saying that one day it is sure to be that elegant enclave again.<\/p>\n

\"Jaffna

Jaffna’s spiritual centerpiece, the lofty Nallur Kandaswamy temple<\/p><\/div>\n

SUBSCRIBE TO INTREPID’S NEWSLETTER FOR TRAVEL STORIES, COMPETITIONS, GIVEAWAYS & MORE<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Jaffna<\/strong><\/h2>\n

For most of the few intrepid wanderers to the north, Jaffna is where the story begins and ends. And maybe for good reason; this compact city that has been both kingdom and battlefield is an enchanting and seductive place, once you start exploring beyond the surface. The more you see of this hidden jewel, the deeper you\u2019ll want to dig.<\/p>\n

Once I started wandering down random streets and discovering the crumbling facades of once-magnificent structures, I found myself staying up late into the night, Googling everything I could find on the history surrounding them and the people who built and fought over them.<\/p>\n

\"Ruins

A historic site left to fall into ruin, this was once an important government building<\/p><\/div>\n

I\u2019ll get the bad news out of the way first: there\u2019s precious little information out there. Decades of war and struggle have left an inevitable (and heartbreaking) gap in the recorded history of the region. The only written copy of the history of the city was destroyed in an act of terrorism at the start of the war in 1981.<\/p>\n

The good news is, the city\u2019s magnificent library was rebuilt to its former splendor and there are people tirelessly advocating for the preservation and renovation of other important historical sites.<\/p>\n

\"Palace

The ruins of the stunning Mantri Manai (historic palace)<\/p><\/div>\n

VISIT SRI LANKA ON INTREPID’S 12-DAY ‘SENSATIONAL SRI LANKA’ TRIP<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

The islands<\/strong><\/h2>\n

It may be tempting to spend all of your time in Jaffna, treasure hunting for more and more hidden clues to the city\u2019s storied past. But if you can drag yourself away, you\u2019ll find even more opportunities to explore the wild north in Jaffna\u2019s islands.<\/p>\n

Most can only be reached by ferry, which adds to the I\u2019m-discovering-a-new-world feeling. The ferries themselves are part of the adventure, and should be approached with a sense of humor (and a healthy dose of sea sickness medication if you\u2019re prone).<\/p>\n

Why go now?<\/strong><\/h2>\n

26 years of war has taken an undeniable toll on the entire region. Battle-scarred, yes, but most of the military presence has gone, leaving the people to come home and rebuild in peace.<\/p>\n

\"Church

Our Lady of Refuge Church, slowly being restored to its former glory<\/p><\/div>\n

It\u2019s easy to see the remnants of what Jaffna used to be. Wide, tree-lined streets dotted with elegant, ornate homes and lush, flowering courtyards. The crown jewel library on the waterfront, a gleaming beacon of Tamil literacy and scholarship. Green parks, lively markets, and sacred Hindu temples providing a riot of colors in beautiful contrast to the sun-bleached coast and salt flats that blanket much of the region.<\/p>\n

Some people might question the wisdom of visiting a former war zone that is still hard at work rebuilding itself. Personally, I can\u2019t think of a better time to visit Sri Lanka\u2019s northern province than right this very minute. If you\u2019re a history buff like I am, a lover of off-the-beaten-track travel like I am, and someone who appreciates being able to see things that won\u2019t be around forever, this is the perfect time to see more of this tiny island nation than the surf breaks and the tea plantations.<\/p>\n

\"Jaffna

Even the ruined buildings are captivating in Jaffna’s sunset light<\/p><\/div>\n

The war is over, there are new hotels and restaurants opening all the time, and a shiny new train is bringing visitors further north than they have ventured in decades. Progress is marching forward and one day this part of the country may look much like the rest of it; well-trodden tourist trails lined with backpacker hostels and smoothie shops.<\/p>\n

But for now, the north is as wild and unexplored as it gets on this tropical paradise.<\/p>\n

Ready to explore the delights of Northern Sri Lanka and more? Check out Intrepid’s 12-day ‘Sensational Sri Lanka’ trip.<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

—<\/p>\n

(All images c\/o Leslie Price.)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

One day Northern Sri Lanka may have tourist trails, backpacker hostels and smoothie shops like the south. For now, the region is as wild and unexplored as it gets.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15940,"featured_media":23276,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[286],"tags":[180,52],"class_list":["post-23266","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-asia","tag-sri-lanka","ipf_region-sri-lanka"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nNorthern Sri Lanka (including Jaffna): Why to Visit | Intrepid Travel Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"One day Northern Sri Lanka may also have tourist trails, backpacker hostels and smoothie shops. For now, the region is as wild and unexplored as it gets.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Why Northern Sri Lanka should be on your travel radar\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"One day Northern Sri Lanka may have tourist trails, backpacker hostels and smoothie shops like the south. For now, the region is as wild and unexplored as it gets.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"The Good Times by Intrepid\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/intrepidtravel\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2017-11-07T21:20:42+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-03-18T10:27:37+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC02874-1-e1510087550748.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"800\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"448\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Leslie Price\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:title\" content=\"Why I love Northern Sri Lanka\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@Intrepid_Travel\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@Intrepid_Travel\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Leslie Price\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"8 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/\",\"name\":\"Northern Sri Lanka (including Jaffna): Why to Visit | Intrepid Travel Blog\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC02874-1-e1510087550748.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2017-11-07T21:20:42+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2025-03-18T10:27:37+00:00\",\"author\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#\/schema\/person\/85093d9484f1d03db9ef6cfc7dba0e68\"},\"description\":\"One day Northern Sri Lanka may also have tourist trails, backpacker hostels and smoothie shops. For now, the region is as wild and unexplored as it gets.\",\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC02874-1-e1510087550748.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC02874-1-e1510087550748.jpg\",\"width\":800,\"height\":448,\"caption\":\"Northern Sri Lanka Jaffna\"},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Home\",\"item\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"Why Northern Sri Lanka should be on your travel radar\"}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/\",\"name\":\"The Good Times by Intrepid\",\"description\":\"adventure news\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":{\"@type\":\"PropertyValueSpecification\",\"valueRequired\":true,\"valueName\":\"search_term_string\"}}],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#\/schema\/person\/85093d9484f1d03db9ef6cfc7dba0e68\",\"name\":\"Leslie Price\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#\/schema\/person\/image\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/4bcf51662cb1da2d4c549460a773c161f7bf9064c60da3112d40644ebbb4599e?s=96&d=mm&r=g\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/4bcf51662cb1da2d4c549460a773c161f7bf9064c60da3112d40644ebbb4599e?s=96&d=mm&r=g\",\"caption\":\"Leslie Price\"},\"description\":\"Leslie Price is a former Florida funeral director turned travel writer and creator of myadventurebucket.com, currently bouncing around the globe on an epic bucket list adventure. Directed by a random algorithm that decides where she goes, she has had adventures with monks in Burma, monkeys in Bali, and one very curious Ugandan gorilla.\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/author\/leslie-price\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Northern Sri Lanka (including Jaffna): Why to Visit | Intrepid Travel Blog","description":"One day Northern Sri Lanka may also have tourist trails, backpacker hostels and smoothie shops. For now, the region is as wild and unexplored as it gets.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Why Northern Sri Lanka should be on your travel radar","og_description":"One day Northern Sri Lanka may have tourist trails, backpacker hostels and smoothie shops like the south. For now, the region is as wild and unexplored as it gets.","og_url":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/","og_site_name":"The Good Times by Intrepid","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/intrepidtravel\/","article_published_time":"2017-11-07T21:20:42+00:00","article_modified_time":"2025-03-18T10:27:37+00:00","og_image":[{"width":800,"height":448,"url":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC02874-1-e1510087550748.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Leslie Price","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_title":"Why I love Northern Sri Lanka","twitter_creator":"@Intrepid_Travel","twitter_site":"@Intrepid_Travel","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Leslie Price","Est. reading time":"8 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/","url":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/","name":"Northern Sri Lanka (including Jaffna): Why to Visit | Intrepid Travel Blog","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#website"},"primaryImageOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#primaryimage"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC02874-1-e1510087550748.jpg","datePublished":"2017-11-07T21:20:42+00:00","dateModified":"2025-03-18T10:27:37+00:00","author":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#\/schema\/person\/85093d9484f1d03db9ef6cfc7dba0e68"},"description":"One day Northern Sri Lanka may also have tourist trails, backpacker hostels and smoothie shops. For now, the region is as wild and unexplored as it gets.","breadcrumb":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#breadcrumb"},"inLanguage":"en-US","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/"]}]},{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#primaryimage","url":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC02874-1-e1510087550748.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC02874-1-e1510087550748.jpg","width":800,"height":448,"caption":"Northern Sri Lanka Jaffna"},{"@type":"BreadcrumbList","@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/northern-sri-lanka\/#breadcrumb","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Home","item":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"Why Northern Sri Lanka should be on your travel radar"}]},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#website","url":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/","name":"The Good Times by Intrepid","description":"adventure news","potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":{"@type":"PropertyValueSpecification","valueRequired":true,"valueName":"search_term_string"}}],"inLanguage":"en-US"},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#\/schema\/person\/85093d9484f1d03db9ef6cfc7dba0e68","name":"Leslie Price","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/#\/schema\/person\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/4bcf51662cb1da2d4c549460a773c161f7bf9064c60da3112d40644ebbb4599e?s=96&d=mm&r=g","contentUrl":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/4bcf51662cb1da2d4c549460a773c161f7bf9064c60da3112d40644ebbb4599e?s=96&d=mm&r=g","caption":"Leslie Price"},"description":"Leslie Price is a former Florida funeral director turned travel writer and creator of myadventurebucket.com, currently bouncing around the globe on an epic bucket list adventure. Directed by a random algorithm that decides where she goes, she has had adventures with monks in Burma, monkeys in Bali, and one very curious Ugandan gorilla.","url":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/author\/leslie-price\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DSC02874-1-e1510087550748.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4OQMK-63g","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23266","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/15940"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=23266"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23266\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":83049,"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23266\/revisions\/83049"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/23276"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=23266"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=23266"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=23266"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}