{"id":20921,"date":"2017-07-21T00:23:41","date_gmt":"2017-07-20T14:23:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/?p=20921"},"modified":"2024-11-14T10:16:17","modified_gmt":"2024-11-13T23:16:17","slug":"georgian-food-tbilisi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/georgian-food-tbilisi\/","title":{"rendered":"8 must-try Georgian dishes to eat in Tbilisi"},"content":{"rendered":"

Given its proximity to Russia, it might be tempting to dismiss Georgian<\/a> food as heavy, stodgy and bland. But nothing could be further from the truth. As any traveller to Georgia will tell you, the country\u2019s unique cuisine, wine culture and the ritual of the supra<\/em> (Georgian feast) are all highlights.<\/strong><\/p>\n

While some of Russia\u2019s gastronomic traits do carry over (read: lots of carbs, dairy and red meat), religious customs that call for meat-free dining at certain times of year means there are lots of options available for vegetarians. Inflected with aromatics and a surprisingly liberal use of chilli (thanks in part to its Persian and Turkish neighbours to the south), Georgian cooking also features loads of fresh herbs and some of the tastiest locally grown produce you\u2019re likely to encounter anywhere in the world.<\/p>\n

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Sirajkana Wine Restaurant<\/p><\/div>\n

Georgian food is notoriously moreish and overindulging is not uncommon \u2013 the Georgians even have a word for it, shemomedjamo<\/em> (literal translation: \u2018I accidentally ate the whole thing\u2019!). While you\u2019d be hard-pressed to sample every delicacy Georgia has to offer, you should at least try to ensure these must-try Georgian dishes make their way onto your plate.<\/p>\n

Khinkali<\/strong><\/h3>\n
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Credit): Emily Lush<\/p><\/div>\n

Georgia\u2019s most recognisable dish, khinkali<\/em>, is something of a hybrid between Russian pelmeni<\/em>, ravioli, and Chinese soup dumplings. Simple water-and-flour dough parcels are stuffed with various meat and non-meat fillings \u2013 my favourites include potato and cheese, and Mountanier-style with pork and veal \u2013 before being boiled. There\u2019s an art to eating khinkali<\/em>: After dousing the plate with black pepper, it\u2019s customary to first grab the dumpling by its doughy nipple, bite a small hole in the side and slurp out the juices. It\u2019s impolite to eat the knobbly bit of dough though, so just leave it on your plate.<\/p>\n

Traveller\u2019s Tip:<\/strong> Which restaurant makes the best khinkali<\/em> in Tbilisi is a hotly contested topic. Zakhar Zakharich is a local favourite \u2013 and according to rumours, one of the last eateries where the khinkali<\/em> are still made by hand. All restaurants require a minimum order of at least five pieces of any one flavour.<\/p>\n

Badrijani nigvzit<\/strong><\/h3>\n

If there\u2019s one Georgian dish I crave regularly enough to attempt to recreate it at home, it\u2019s badrijani nigvzit<\/em> \u2013 widely referred to by its English name, eggplant with walnut. This highly addictive finger food is made by plastering thin slices of chargrilled eggplant with a walnut paste that\u2019s flavoured with blue fenugreek, tarragon vinegar, and dried marigold. Unfamiliar flavours to most taste buds, the result is unlike anything I\u2019ve tasted before.<\/p>\n

Traveller\u2019s Tip:<\/strong> My favourite rendition of badrijani nigvzit <\/em>is served at Racha House, close to Tbilisi\u2019s Open Air Museum of Ethnography. Here, the eggplant is rolled into pretty rosettes and bejewelled with an extra-generous smattering of pomegranate gems.<\/p>\n

Khachapuri<\/strong><\/h3>\n
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Credit: Emily Lush<\/p><\/div>\n

Bread (puri<\/em>) is sacred stuff in the Caucasus \u2013 so much so that it\u2019s taboo to throw bread away, which is why you\u2019ll often see plastic bags full of old crusts tied to the outside of rubbish bins. Khachapuri<\/em>, an open cheese pie, is one of Georgia\u2019s more creative bread dishes. Different varieties correspond to different regions: Traditional khachapuri<\/em> with salty sulguni<\/em> cheese is a favourite in the city; there\u2019s also lobiani<\/em> (filled with beans), khabizgina<\/em> (filled with potato), and my personal favourite, stuffed khachapuri<\/em> basted in butter and roasted on a spit. In a league of its own is the extremely indulgent Adjarian khachapuri<\/em>: a boat-shaped pie served with a raw egg yolk and a stick of butter floating in its molten cheese top.<\/p>\n

Traveller\u2019s Tip:<\/strong> A good place to try Adjarian khachapuri<\/em> is Cafe Restaurant Kala. Swirl the butter and egg yolk with your fork before breaking off bits of bread to scoop up the filling. Budget travellers take note \u2013 after one of these, you won\u2019t need to eat again for at least 24 hours!<\/p>\n

Kharcho<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Native to Samegrelo in Western Georgian, you\u2019ll often find kharcho<\/em> listed on restaurant menus in the soup section. Whenever I ate it, the consistency was more like a saucy curry or a thin stew. Kharcho<\/em> is typically made with beef, plum puree and ground walnuts, which gives the sauce a complex sweet-and-sour taste and a beautiful nutty texture, not unlike a satay.<\/p>\n

Traveller\u2019s Tip: <\/strong>The best place to eat kharcho<\/em> is at a traditional Megrelian restaurant like local favourite Mapshalia. Remember to order an extra side of elarji<\/em> (fried polenta balls) to mop up the sauce.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pkhali <\/strong><\/h3>\n
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Credit: Shavi Lomi<\/p><\/div>\n

At this stage you might be in need of a palate refresher \u2013 look no further than pkhali<\/em>, a vegan dish made from finely chopped beetroot, nettles, cabbage, spinach, and other leafy vegetables. Combined with crushed walnuts, garlic and fresh herbs for flavour, pkhali<\/em> is like a cross between a cold salad and a dip.<\/p>\n

Traveller\u2019s Tip: <\/strong>Five vibrant pastes with crackers and cheese on the side, the pkhali<\/em> at Shavi Lomi (Black Lion) makes for an ideal share plate.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Chikhirtma<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Georgia’s answer to chicken soup, chikhirtma<\/em> is a light, silky chicken bouillon that\u2019s threaded with egg whites and finished with a zesty citrus kick. Heavy on the onions and garlic, it’s served with a big hunk of fall-apart-soft meat at the bottom of the bowl. Trying to eat chicken off the bone with a soup spoon is tricky, to say the least, but it\u2019s worth the effort.<\/p>\n

Traveller\u2019s Tip: <\/strong>Due to its purported restorative qualities, the chikhirtma<\/em> at Culinarium Khasheria is fondly referred to as \u2018hangover soup\u2019. Just what your body and soul need after a night on the chacha<\/em> (Georgian homebrew).<\/p>\n

Lobio<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"\"

Credit: Emily Lush<\/p><\/div>\n

Now I know boiled beans is a bit of a hard sell; but as per usual, Georgia takes the humblest of dishes to a whole new flavour level. Cooked with onion and spices and served in a quaint clay pot, a good lobio<\/em> (stewed kidney beans) comes with all the trimmings \u2013 pickles, fresh spring onion, and mchadi<\/em> corn bread. For something different, try lobio<\/em> Racha, a version of the dish associated with Georgia\u2019s western highlands that incorporates ham hock.<\/p>\n

Traveller\u2019s Tip: <\/strong>Duquani, a traditional Georgian-style tavern, serves an excellent lobio<\/em> alongside other classic dishes.<\/p>\n

Georgian salad<\/strong><\/h3>\n
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Credit: Emily Lush<\/p><\/div>\n

Georgia grows the most robust, flavorful tomatoes, and no dish showcases them better than the humble peasant\u2019s salad. A traditional Georgian salad consists of chunky wedges of tomato and cucumber dressed with basil and coriander, Kakhetian olive oil, red onion and a little rocket lettuce. But the real secret is in the sauce: creamy baje<\/em> (Georgian walnut dressing), usually served on the side as an optional extra.<\/p>\n

Traveller\u2019s Tip: <\/strong>Make a meal of it \u2013 the Georgian salad at Tbilisi\u2019s worst kept secret cafe, Keto and Kote, is served with freshly baked bread and a wedge of salty sulguni<\/em> cheese.<\/p>\n

You\u2019ll find there\u2019s enough diversity in Georgian cooking to justify eating local food every day. There are hundreds of cafes and restaurants around Tbilisi\u2019s Old City and beyond \u2013 stick to the tavern-style cellar restaurants and local cafes for the best food. Georgians are renowned for their hospitality and home-cooking is on another level, so if someone invites you to share a meal at their home, trust me, you should accept!<\/p>\n

Ready to sample Georgia for yourself? You need an Intrepid small group adventure<\/a>!\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Words and images by Emily Lush<\/a>, you can follow her travels at @emily_lush<\/a><\/p>\n

Feature image: Shutterstock\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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