{"id":17987,"date":"2017-01-23T10:30:54","date_gmt":"2017-01-22T23:30:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures?p=17987&preview=true&preview_id=17987"},"modified":"2025-03-19T22:09:34","modified_gmt":"2025-03-19T11:09:34","slug":"stairway-to-hell-climbing-indonesias-mt-bromo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.intrepidtravel.com\/adventures\/stairway-to-hell-climbing-indonesias-mt-bromo\/","title":{"rendered":"Climbing the slopes of Mt Bromo"},"content":{"rendered":"

I’ve just reached what feels like a portal to Hell, and it\u00a0really\u00a0isn’t too scary. There’s no fire, no brimstones and no demons\u00a0wielding pitchforks. And the heat isn’t all that bad either. It does smell though \u2013 that sulphurous rotten egg scent on the air. Disconcertingly, the portal isn\u2019t very from home \u2013 just a nine-hour flight from Melbourne, followed by a three-hour drive through Javanese rice fields. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Where is this infernal place? I\u2019m standing on top of Mount Bromo<\/a>, an active volcano in East Java, Indonesia, looking down into its fiery caldera as plumes of thick smoke billow from deep inside the earth.\u00a0<\/span><\/span>For most travellers, Indonesia brings to mind images of surf, sand and tropical rainforests teeming with bio-diverse wildlife straight out of an Attenborough documentary. But as I look out over this barren, moon-like landscape \u2013 devoid of life, apart from a trickle of travellers, a handful of local guides and their horses \u2013 it strikes me that this is about as hellish as it gets in equatorial, jungle-clad Indonesia.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"mt-bromo-sunrise-intrepid-2\"<\/p>\n

Rising, quite literally, from a sea of ashes in the 10-kilometre wide Tengger caldera (one of the most scenic and visited attractions in Indonesia and part of the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park), Mount Bromo, at 2,392-metres above sea level, isn\u2019t even Java\u2019s highest peak; that title belongs to 3,676m tall Mount Semeru, which stands imposingly in the background, like a bouncer, frequently smoking and occasionally erupting in a blazing fury.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

But what Mount Bromo lacks\u00a0<\/span><\/span>in stature it gains in notoriety and religious significance. The name Bromo derives from the Javanese pronunciation of\u00a0Brahma<\/i>, the\u00a0Hindu\u00a0creator god, a nod to the volcano\u2019s raw, elemental power. As one of the most active volcanoes in Indonesia \u2013 not a trivial distinction in a country where eruptions occur as regularly as the seasons \u2013 Mount Bromo has been revered by the local Hindu villagers for hundreds of years. In an effort to keep the beast\u2019s smouldering fury at bay, they make yearly pilgrimages to its smoky crater during the\u00a0Yadnya Kasada<\/i>\u00a0festival (held in July or August) with offerings of fruit, rice and livestock;\u00a0that\u2019s assuming the volcano isn\u2019t erupting and spewing volcanic ash kilometres into the sky, disrupting flights and covering nearby villages in layers of ash fall.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"indonesia-trip\"<\/a>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

My journey to the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park began at the hellish hour of 4:00am in the back of a navy blue Toyota Land Cruiser. Accompanied by a few friends, we drove the 60-minute journey from Malang in East Java (a highland city rich with Dutch colonial history) in the pre-dawn darkness in the hope of catching one of those fleeting picture-perfect postcard moments. I\u2019d been told, like many others I\u2019m sure, that the best views of the volcano were from atop the\u00a0<\/span><\/span>Mount Penanjakan<\/span><\/span>\u00a0lookout point \u2013 preferably at sunrise. Apparently, the morning sun\u2019s warm light bathes the caldera in a kaleidoscope of purples and oranges, creating the kind of mythical scene that actually justifies a 4:00am wakeup call. \u201cIt\u2019ll be worth it,\u201d my Indonesian mates said.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Personally I wasn\u2019t so sure. I\u2019d been burned before with the promise of a glorious sunrise ascent (it just never lived up to expectations) and I was doubtful it\u2019d be worth the pre-dawn wakeup call and the chilly conditions at high altitude. A hundred slippery steps later, after a 45-minute drive up to the lookout point in the inky darkness in the back of a jeep driven by a burly Indonesian, I find my reservations justified. Instead of that postcard moment, I\u2019m presented with a wall of thick grey cloud, stubbornly guarding the view I\u2019d trudged so far to see. I\u2019d been burned again.<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"mt-bromo-sunrise-intrepid\"<\/p>\n

Disappointed and anxious to move on, we descend the hundred slippery steps down\u00a0<\/span><\/span>Mount Penanjakan and<\/span><\/span>\u00a0back to our red jeep, idling in the dawn light and waiting to drive us to the caldera floor. But our disappointment doesn\u2019t last long. Halfway down the mountain the morning clouds part, revealing the surreal Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park hidden all along. In front of me, volcanic smoke from Mount Bromo drifts eastward like low lying cloud, past crinkly-surfaced Mount Batok (the only inactive volcano in the fiery complex) against a palette of charcoals, browns, greens and blues \u2013 all arranged in perfect composition. It\u2019s a scene I\u2019d seen many times before, in photos online and in magazines; but still, I\u2019m totally captivated. We pull over to the side of the road to take photos of ourselves against the otherworldly background.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Back in the jeep we make our final turn off the mountain road and hit the caldera floor with a thump. Instantly the landscape transforms from lush greens to barren greys, and the screeching of the tyres drops into a lower register, signalling we\u2019ve just entered the sea of sands. In the distance, lone Indonesian cowboys zigzag across the black dunes on their horses (the caldera would be the perfect location for a Western movie set on the moon), whilst up ahead a procession of jeeps \u00ad(of which we\u2019re a part) shoot across the caldera floor towards Mount Brom, kicking up dust clouds in their wake. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

After disembarking from our jeep at the edges of Pura Luhur Poten \u00ad\u2013 a Hindu temple dedicated to the god of Bromo, and the focal point of the festivities during\u00a0<\/span><\/span>Yadnya Kasada<\/span><\/i><\/span>\u00a0\u2013\u00a0<\/span><\/span>we\u2019re immediately surrounded by gruff guides keen on taking us across the sands on horseback to the beginning of the 253 steps leading up to the crater\u2019s edge. My Indonesian friends haggle, and haggle some more, and soon we\u2019re off like cowboys and cowgirls to meet our fate, all for a reasonable sum of\u00a0<\/span><\/span>IDR100,000<\/span><\/span>\u00a0(around $10).<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"mount-bromo-indonesia-horse-riding-unsplash\"<\/p>\n

\"mt-bromo-indonesia-horses-unsplash\"<\/p>\n

We trot over the rolling black dunes until we reach the steps leading up to the top of Mount Bromo. I throw a few smiles at fellow climbers as I pass them on the way up, trying to distract myself from my burning thighs as I ascend one step at a time. The ground trembles when I finally reach the summit, and I share a high-five with my mates as we stand on the crater\u2019s edge \u2013 triumphant, yes, but totally at the mercy of the volcano\u2019s destructive temperament, liable to unleash its fury at any moment. I\u2019m not a religious man, but as I stare into the smoking crater, I find myself praying, like the local villagers, that Mount Bromo is enjoying its quiet slumber.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Want to see Mt Bromo for yourself? Check out our Jakarta to Ubud small group adventure<\/a>.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"feeling-inspired-2\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As I look out over this barren, moon-like landscape \u2013 devoid of life, apart from a trickle of travellers, a handful of local guides and their horses \u2013 it strikes me that this is about as hellish as it gets in equatorial, jungle-clad Indonesia.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15875,"featured_media":17989,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[286],"tags":[61,422,253],"class_list":["post-17987","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-indonesia","tag-oceania","tag-travel","ipf_region-indonesia"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nClimbing the slopes of Mt Bromo | The Good Times by Intrepid<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" 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