The 6th of November marked our first ever Intrepid Foundation Day and it was a huge success around the globe. The purpose of the day was to increase our staff awareness of all the fantastic projects the Intrepid Foundation is supporting and also stimulate ideas on how they could be more involved…

Our India office got local hoteliers and operators involved in supporting local charity GOONJ, and donations are coming in from quiz nights and other games that were enjoyed on Intrepid trips. In Johannesburg the staff had a cocktail party and chose to raise funds for the Charles Darwin Foundation in the Galapagos.

In Kenya they planned cheap car washes, basic vehicle servicing and helping with local community clean ups in exchange for donations. Stay tuned for news of an Egypt trip raffle in the UK, and for our Toronto, Boulder, Beijing and Melbourne offices it was a special dress-up day, with all the staff donning something from their travels and donating to the Foundation.

On top of the learning and great ideas generated, it looks like in one day we have been able to raise around AU$2000, and on top of that every dollar will be matched by Intrepid Travel. We look forward to you joining in the fun with us next year, but in the interim you can help us support local charities and communities at the grass-roots level by making an easy donation online.

“For me, travelling is all about people and stories. When I heard that I had won a place on the Inca trail trip, I was of course ecstatic, but I never imagined just what a wonderful experience it would be.

From the first moment that I arrived in Peru I was overwhelmed by the kindness and inquisitiveness of the people. The trail itself is described as a pilgrimage by many, and I expected to experience this through the ancient sites and stories of the Incas. Our guide really painted the images of the remarkable lives of these people with a passion, as if they we his own living relatives. While this was amazing, it was the living folk who were undertaking the journey with me that made it a pilgrimage of modern day people, and for me a realisation that while we are all living in different circumstances, people are the same the world over, seeking friendship and knowledge of others.

The real heroes of the trail are the porters, some of the happiest people I have met. Each morning we were awakened with the gentle shaking of our tents, a hot cup of coca tea and a smiling greeting of “Como estas amiga?” (How are you my friend.) As they went running past us with bags weighing four times as much as ours we got the same smiling inquiry, and when we arrived exhausted to find our camp completely set up and 13 basins of warm water to wash our hands, we were greeted with a round of applause.

I am accustomed to hiking in New Zealand and Australia, where everyone carries their own gear everyday, and we are all equally responsible for the camp and the food, so to begin with this luxury did not sit well with me. However, one day as I was struggling up the hill I had a particularly changing conversation with one of the porters.

This man had been working the trail for over 9 years, a long time for a porter, and the creases on his face and hands were nearly as deep as some of the steps were high. I expressed my concern at us taking advantage of the local people to carry our belongings and look after us, and he turned my concern on its head. He began to tell me of his family, and how before he became a porter he was a farmer. However, he sold the produce from his farm and his family had to live on a pittance. When he came to work on the trail it was difficult because he was so far from his family. Because transport to and from the village was not paid for, he spent most of his time living in Cuzco and not seeing his family, but sending home his substantial pay checks. This has enabled his children to attend school and his family now live much better.

When I asked him about working for Intrepid, a smile spread across his face. Turns out that Intrepid pay the porters better than other companies, and provide benefits such as clothing and transportation. Our porters were not paid to be happy, they simply were happy. The realisation that my ‘luxury hiking’ was actually feeding families turned my previous thinking completely upside down, and I was proud to be travelling with Intrepid. I asked if he missed his family, and he replied yes, but that he sees them more often now, and that like me, his friends on the trail are his family. And when I stupidly asked if he enjoyed his job he replied that the mountains are his office, what was not to like?

This is only one of a number of experiences I had in Peru, but it changed the hike from simply a gruelling walk through spectacular country with amazing history, into a pilgrimage of people’s stories. These mountains evoke a special bond in people, and I was lucky enough to encounter that with one man, whose name I don’t even know, high in the clouds.

My second encounter happened high on Lake Titicaca after I had left my Intrepid group and was travelling independently. I was chatting with two fellow travellers, one whom is a guide in Cuzco. When he discovered I had been in that area the week before he began questioning me on my activities. As I mentioned that I had been travelling with Intrepid he interrupted and began spouting the virtues of the company. He regarded it as the leading company working in Cuzco, despite its short existence there, and sincerely wished that he could work with them (unfortunately he spoke very little English which made employment difficult). He mentioned their good treatment of their staff, their support of local projects, and their philosophy for sustainable travel as things that he hoped other companies could learn from. The passion with which he spoke made it clear to me that this was someone expressing his own opinions, with no affiliations to the company, and impressed me immensely.

As a traveller, I have had two marvelous experiences with Intrepid, but it is always difficult to gauge exactly how the company is perceived by locals. Here was proof that my suspicions were absolutely correct and that the company is leading the way into what I hope will become the standard for travel companies.

Congratulations Intrepid, I was already a huge fan, but now I cannot recommend you highly enough. Your staff in Peru deserve everything that they request. Thanks to Bobby, Maritza, and Julio for a fantastic trip, and thanks again to Intrepid for making it possible.”

Tour Peru with Intrepid on trips like these great small group adventures:
Inca Trail - 8 days
Peru Encompassed - 21 days

* photo by Carol McGrath - Intrepid Photography Competition

“As we slowly wound our way up the narrow rocky path through flowery shrubs and pines, I could not believe the drop in temperature compared to when we left the base of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, but even the cool climate could not distract me from the breathtaking views over the countryside looking down to Lijiang rooftops, a beautiful ancient village of the Yunnan province.

As our horses plodded up the well-worn path on the southernmost glacier of the northern hemisphere, we reached the snow line where we stopped for a well-deserved rest. Gazing at the rocky formations it is easy to see how Yulong Mountain retains its name. The snow-covered mountain resembles a jade dragon lying in the clouds, hence the English translation of it name, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

A smattering of small wooden huts held together with all kind of materials, welcomed us with enticing aromas of teas and flavoursome soups. Elderly Naxi women, stirring large pots over hot coals and making fresh bread, motioned for us to perch on the stools around a table to enjoy a small banquet they had prepared for us and the other riders. Filling our cups with green tea leaves and hot water it was great to warm up and escape from the sharp winds that cut through the jagged rocks. Our Naxi guides squatted in the corner, smoking and drinking some kind of homemade noodle soup from jars.

It amazed me how these families lived high on the mountains in the often harsh conditions. Snow, fog, wind and ice didn’t deter them from carrying all their supplies via a minimum three-hour donkey or horse ride from the closest Naxi villages. Old tarpaulins, plastic, rocks and timber blocked any gaps in their dwelling structures. Reviewing the panoramic views and marveling in mother nature yet again, I can understand the beauty and enticement of living on the glacier, not to mention the horse trekking tourist trade!

Descending back towards the Naxi village, the sun warmed our faces as we stripped back down to T-shirts. As we neared the flats, giggling Naxi children with grubby faces and bare feet ran along beside us laughing at our western looks and light hair. Hiding in roadside drain ditches or around corners of the stone walls, they would either shy away or jump out to surprise us.

The many rural villages I passed though on my travels in Yunnan were enchanting. The still-existent ancient culture of the Naxi people was evident everywhere. Their hospitality and curious smiles were intoxicating. If there wasn’t so much of the world still to see and explore, I would return constantly to this charming corner of China.”

Tour China with Intrepid on trips like these great small group adventures:
Yunnan Experience - 10 days
Middle Kingdom Magic - 24 days

* photo by Sarah McNally - Intrepid Photography Competition

The move comes on the back of Intrepid’s successful experiment this year with offering 38 carbon offset trips. Our reports show that there were no significant changes in booking patterns to these 38 trips in 2009, with the increased cost not discouraging travellers (on average less than 50 cents per day per traveller). These trips sold more or held steady against other small group adventures.

Intrepid has calculated the most significant carbon emission sources from all of our trips, including carbon emissions of the ground transport, accommodation and waste. Wherever possible, efforts have been taken to reduce carbon emissions, although Intrepid has always travelled in a carbon-efficient style. Any remaining carbon emissions will be offset with carbon credits from energy efficiency and clean energy projects in Thailand, India and China.

“With the focus shifting away from the credit crunch and back to the green crunch, we hope our actions inspire others in the travel industry to start addressing the critical issue of climate change,” said CEO and Co-founder, Darrell Wade.

“We find all the whinging from business and politicians about carbon reduction schemes quite extraordinary. Perhaps people should complain less, think more and then test some new products and strategies to see how they go. We’ve done just that and found that our Carbon Offset Trips were commercially successful - so much so that we are now offsetting all of our trips, except the few where we do not have pricing control.”

Our 2010 brochure prices include the cost of carbon emission offset s for each of the trips . The amount of carbon is displayed on our website.

In 2010 Intrepid Travel expects to carry over 75,000 clients on carbon offset trips with the average duration of 15 days, in over 100 destinations.

The decision to carbon offset all of the trips that we directly operate takes Intrepid one step closer to realising our goal of becoming carbon neutral in 2010.

* photo by Rosina Adair - Intrepid Photography Competition

“Japan is a photographer’s dream. From the austere beauty of traditional shrines to the vibrant embroidered designs of women’s kimono or the explosive beauty of cherry blossoms in spring, there’s no doubt that this land is a feast for the eyes! But I always advise Intrepid travellers to take time to close your eyes or put down the camera and just listen to the sounds of the country. There’s a lot to hear.

Although Japanese people may have a reputation overseas for being quiet and reserved, once you arrive here you’ll see that’s not the case at all! Walk into any shop or restaurant and you’ll hear the staff greet you with enthusiastic shouts of Irrashaimasei! (Welcome!). Visit a Shinto shrine and hear worshipers clap loudly to catch the attention of the gods. Watch a sumo match and listen to wrestlers slap their bellies as they strut around the ring.

If your ears tire of all the clapping, yelling and slapping, go to Tokyo’s Meji Shrine and listen to the sound of your feet on the stone paths, or hike Mt Fuji and listen to the crickets singing in the mountain’s forests. Or attend a tea ceremony in Kyoto and notice the gentle bubble of boiling water and the musical tinkle water makes when the tea master pours it into the bowl.

You can easily use up reams of film or cartons of memory cards capturing the visual beauty of Japan. But why not bring a digital sound recorder on your trip as well to take audio snapshots of this remarkable soundscape?”

Tour Japan with Intrepid on trips like these great small group adventures:
Land of the Rising Sun - 14 days
Japan Basix - 15 days

* photo by Martine Cotton - Intrepid Photography Competition

“A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single sniff” - not exactly the Lao Tzu quote that made the philosopher famous, but it’s close enough. Point being, do cities or countries possess a unique odour?

Travel should broaden the mind but more often dilates the nostrils, depending on the destination. You don’t have to possess the prominent feature of Cyrano de Bergerac to catch a whiff of the Guinness factory in Dublin, nor do you require a GPS to let you know that you have reached Faridabad, a sprawling industrial city north of New Delhi. The schnoz will let you know you have arrived.

However, in a blindfold test, hooter at the ready, could you sniff the difference between Marrakech and Hong Kong? If you have ever visited these places, the chances are you would instantly recall the aroma; Marrakech with its wood-smoke, spices and aromatic resin combined with the tanneries of the Medina - a pungent mixture that stays with you long after you depart - to the dried fish, over-cooked noodle infused fragrance of Hong Kong.

Cairo has the unfortunate claim of having the highest levels of aromatic hydrocarbons of any similar sized city - a rather flowery scientific term which translated means the air stinks and it’s polluted, but you know where you are. On the subject of science, the smells we receive come from molecules that evaporate off objects, everything from the cheese of Stilton (which is actually made in Melton Mowbray) to a dead possum in 100 degree heat on the road to Alice Springs (which by all accounts beats a dead skunk any day). All these aromas go to make up the waft of a region.

Some cities are proud of their pungent reputations. Rotorua, New Zealand, for example, is the self-proclaimed, most noxious city on the planet, where the volcanic sulphur fumes can choke a horse at 100 metres. No mistaking where you are here, just watch for the wheezing gelding at the Air New Zealand counter.

Singapore, on the other hand, could lay claim to being the only city (and country) to leave the nostrils empty, unless you are sensitive to the smell of money.

Before being accused of vilifying any of the destinations mentioned so far, bear in mind that not all aromas leave you reaching for a gas mask. A warm summer breeze kicks up the scent of evening primrose in the Jardins de Touleries in Paris or an afternoon stroll though the Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen with its magnificent spring flower display. Then again, one wrong boarding pass and you could be ingesting molecules from Jacksonville, Florida - some claim the city to be the foulest smelling place in the western hemisphere, the attractive combination of sewer and swamp gas .

We all have photographs and videos of travels to remind us of places visited, but what about an aroma souvenir? And perhaps one day a scratch and sniff system will allow travellers to pre-sample the air of the city they are about to visit. Some of course will come with a warning “Care should be taken when about to scratch the cover off Vientiane, Laos, as it is the home of Cha om, the world’s smelliest vegetable”, a staple in its sour curry and just another example of a scent that permeates the air of most far off lands.

So breathe deeply the next time you travel and let those molecules tell
you where you are.”

* photo by Elaine Bettaney - Intrepid Photography Competition

Fortunately we have good news that this situation is changing thanks to the work of the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) and our Intrepid Foundation partners, TRAFFIC.

Choosing a restaurant in Vietnam’s capital city just got a little easier with the help of a tiny green chef. This cheery culinary figure is turning up on posters in eateries around Hanoi as the logo for WWF and TRAFFIC’s Green Restaurant Campaign to end illegal and/or unsustainable wildlife consumption.

Restaurants that are part of the campaign commit to protecting Vietnam’s threatened biodiversity by not serving wildlife products or species protected under Vietnamese law, such as bears, tigers, and cobras. Since the launch of the campaign on 01 October, over 150 restaurants, from inexpensive street stalls to luxurious western restaurants, have taken the pledge.

Restaurants that sign the commitment are added to a list of approved ‘Green Restaurants’ that is being circulated by the media and responsible travel agencies. The goal is to support restaurants dedicated to protecting wildlife and provide incentive for others to take the pledge. Intrepid Travel has committed to supporting the campaign by encouraging more restaurants to sign on.

The Green Restaurant Campaign is a component of the ‘A Matter of Attitude’ project run by WWF Vietnam and TRAFFIC, the wildlife trade monitoring network. This project seeks to raise awareness and change attitudes towards the consumption of wildlife and wildlife products that is plaguing Vietnam.

A TRAFFIC survey found that the consumption of wildlife for food, souvenirs and medicine has become increasingly popular in Hanoi, especially as income levels rise and residents can afford luxury wildlife items, and also amongst some tourists. Such consumption is having an alarming effect on wild populations of plants and animals. Illegal hunting and trade of protected species in Vietnam has pushed many, including the Javan Rhinoceros, Asian Elephant and Indochinese Tiger, to the brink of local extinction.

Efforts like the Green Restaurant Campaign demonstrate that Vietnam is making progress in the battle against illegal wildlife trade, but there is still a long way to go to ensure the preservation of biodiversity. Local residents and foreign visitors alike are encouraged to support the campaign by choosing ‘Green’ restaurants. In addition, restaurant-goers can report the sale of illegal wildlife products through the Wildlife Trade Hotline, operating 24 hours a day at 1-800-1522.

For more information on the campaign, to view the complete list of participating restaurants, or to learn about commonly traded species threatened with extinction in Vietnam, please visit the Green Restaurant Campaign website.

“In 1988 on my very first big trip overseas, I took a five month overland safari from Egypt to Tanzania and then up through Central Africa and across the Sahara to Europe! This was at about the same time that Darrell and Manch were travelling with friends on the southbound route from London to Nairobi, when they conceived the business idea that was to become Intrepid Travel. I joined this fledgling company some 5 years later.

It seems fitting somehow that on this the year of Intrepid’s 20th anniversary, I find myself back on another (slightly more sophisticated) overland truck, this time exploring West Africa on our Best of Ghana and Mali trip! Alive with local colour, Ghana, Burkina Faso and Mali have exceeded all expectations and I have found it surprisingly easy to slip back into the routine of truck travel. Market shopping and camp cooking, tent set up and pull down and the joys of travelling through remote African villages, kids waving and shouting as we drive past with looks of amazement at our alien selves and our big truck motoring on by!

Mali in particular has been on my travel ‘wish list’ for some time now and it surely didn’t disappoint! A special highlight was our three day trek through Dogon Country. Located below the steep Bandiagara escarpment, the Dogon live simply in mud houses, but are known for their art, sculpture and Mask Dance, which we were privileged to witness. Traditionally a funeral dance, the succession of ritual dances performed by village men in various masks and costumes leads the souls of those recently departed to their final place of rest. It is an amazing and colourful spectacle!

However, I find it is not the main trip highlights that resonate so strongly with me on a trip like this… it is as usual those unexpected local encounters that I know will stay with me for years and years to come. One such encounter occurred when we were rough camping (in the bush and not in an official campground) in Burkina Faso, just ahead of crossing the border into Ghana. In the process of setting up camp, a local man stumbled upon us and curiosity lit up his eyes as he squatted nearby just watching us in fascination. We prepared and cooked our meal and as he was about to leave, I offered him a tuna pattie and some salad. He quietly accepted before wandering off to his village. About an hour later he reappeared out of the darkness and shyly came up to our camp. In his hands he held out a bag full of locally-grown peanuts. This simple but warm and generous gesture, in the face of the poverty we saw all around us, brought a tear to my eye and will be the tale I most often tell of my West African experiences!

I’m so looking forward to another 20 (at least) years of adventure and Intrepid Travel!”

Tour Ghana and Mali with Intrepid on trips like these great small group adventures:

Best of Ghana and Mali - 26 days
Nomadic West Africa - 36 days

* photo by Heather Farish - Intrepid Photography Competition

“My husband and I have been lucky to celebrate our birthdays in a few exotic places around the globe. This time we were enjoying the 9 day Bali Adventure and although my husband tried to hide the fact, we all knew he would be celebrating his birthday on this trip.

The morning of the big day, we set out on foot into the lush hills of East Bali, at the base of Bali’s highest peak, Mt Agung. For over four hours, we walked amongst working rice paddies, traditional villages and along remote jungle tracks. The views were stunning and the walking was not too strenuous - even the humidity was lower at the slight altitude. Our local guide was on hand all the way, bringing our attention to interesting flora and fauna, explaining farming techniques and the ways of village life.

To our pleasant surprise, in one of the villages we were led through a small archway that was the entrance to the home of our local guide’s brother. Prepared that morning by his sister-in-law were our bungkus (take-away) lunches. These included fragrant rice, spicy noodles, satay chicken and eggs, all wrapped in banana leaf.

Before delving into our delicious banana leaf packages, my husband was formally welcomed into the compound and presented with a special hat and a hand-woven scarf. It seemed the locals had been given the heads-up about a birthday! An impromptu cross-nations rendition of ‘Happy Birthday’ was belted out and my husband’s version of lunch was revealed. His was decorated with flowers and much fancier than any of ours!

A really enjoyable couple of hours were spent with the family in their home, learning about village life and in the end, after much pressure from the locals, my husband did reveal his birthday age!

That afternoon we continued our journey in minibuses to reach the tiny finishing village of Kedisan, at the edge of Lake Batur. The night was spent in simple accommodation in a village with not much around. We would be going to sleep very early in preparation for our 3am wake-up call to hike Mt Batur the next morning.

After dinner in our guesthouse, it appeared that our group leader had also planned a surprise and the birthday celebrations were not over! From somewhere in this small village, a birthday cake had been prepared complete with full frosting and personal message iced on the top. For a second time that day the beautiful Balinese had gone out of their way to help us celebrate. I certainly have a lot to live up to now if we are spending birthdays at home!”

Tour Indonesia with Intrepid on trips like these great small group adventures:
Bali Adventure - 9 days
East Indies Explorer - 15 days

“My friend Ange and I set out for an adventure in Cambodia in late December. We were to start the Heart of Cambodia trip on New Year’s Eve and only four days later, in Siem Reap, it would be Ange’s birthday.

Having spent a wonderful day at Angkor Wat, I had arranged with our leader Marcus to help me execute my birthday plan. I wanted a decorated cake, a tiara (Ange had to wear it throughout dinner) and a Cambodian flag for all of us new Intrepid friends to sign as a memento.

So, while the other passengers and Ange set about for a nice leisurely late afternoon in Siem Reap, Marcus and I went to work. First stop was the cake shop. I couldn’t believe it, they had tiaras as well! Decorated cake and glamorous birthday girl sorted, next stop, the market to get a flag.

Final stop in our adventure was dropping the cake off at the restaurant. They were so helpful and were excited about having a birthday in their restaurant. So much so that, surpassing every expectation, after we’d finished our meal they turned out all the lights in the two storey restaurant, played happy birthday over the loud speakers and when Ange blew out the candles, streamers and glitter filled the air and scattered over our table. What a wonderful way to spend a birthday!”

Tour Cambodia with Intrepid on trips like this great small group adventure:
Heart of Cambodia - 15 days